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Dente della Vecchia
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Milchzahn T 

Milchzahn 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 650'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Somebody please add this info
Season: mid-June to early October
Page Views: 279
Submitted By: Lone Ranger on Jul 20, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Milchzahn, 6a, 6 pitches, on Denti della Vecchia

Description 

  • Pitch 1: 6a slab, 45m, 5 bolts.
  • Pitch 2: 5b or so
  • Pitch 3: 3b; 1 or 2 bolts, slab.
  • Pitch 4: 5c or so
  • Pitch 5: 5c or so
  • Pitch 6: 5b or so.

At the end of the Pitch 3, there is a nice flat section to rest/belay. This is where the route from the left side of the wall nearly intersects this route, but continues parallel all the way up and intersects somewhere near the last pitch.

Pitches 4 and 5 are more typical granite climbs of the Alps, pretty steep pillars/ribs, some stemming, but no delicate moves. Protectable.
Pitch 6 is again a face climb, not protectable beyond the existing bolts, and not very run-out.

The average pitch is ~35m with 4-5 bolts between belays. Rope drag is an issue especially on the initial pitches; use half rope system. We were perfectly fine with 50m half ropes. A small rack is helpful but you could run it out too. In most pitches you often don't see the next bolt until you climb up a few meters.

Don't worry about the precise grading of the pitches; the first one is the crux and it will give you a good idea whether you should continue or turn back. If you clear that one, you are good to go.

More detailed trip report

Location 

30-45 mins hike from Refugio Gianetti

Protection 

Runout but well-placed bolts. All pitches have double bolt anchors and rappel rings, so it is not a committing route. You can carry a few friends/nuts/slings as the average pitch is 40 meters long with 4-5 bolts.


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