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Mikey's Warm Up 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Mike Klein
Page Views: 704
Submitted By: Daniel Mendiola on Dec 3, 2012  with updates from karl vochatzer

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Clipping a bolt on the send go of the classic

Description 

Epic route with dynamic movements. The crux is about 3/4 the way up throwing from a undercling to a cresent shaped crip.

Location 

Climb onto the left most ledge. The route starts beneath a very large hueco/cave.

Protection 

4 bolts and ClimbTech anchors.


Photos of Mikey's Warm Up Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Near the top of the route
Near the top of the route
Rock Climbing Photo: A beautiful winter day at Morgan's Point on Captai...
A beautiful winter day at Morgan's Point on Captai...
Rock Climbing Photo: Nick Leading Captain Hook
Nick Leading Captain Hook

Comments on Mikey's Warm Up Add Comment
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By Adam Gurtler
From: Copperas Cove
Jun 30, 2013

Someone moved bolt four away from the jug pocket and put a big white chalk x on the jug. The bolt is now really far right of the crescent crimp and not really clippable from the first jug right and slightly up from the crescent. This new bolt placement makes for a sketchy fall if you fumble bolt four. I assume the reason was to forcefully exclude the jug. The bolt was also a little rusty. The new placement was a bit of a shocker and I think may turn the route into Mickey's Warm Up 11b which is the rockclimbing.com version of the same route. I would love to hear the real reason.
By Evan Marlatt
Aug 3, 2013

I recently talked to the guys who shifted the bolt, bolt 4 was moved because the bottom part of the jug hueco was crumbling and unstable, also a group of birds decided to take nest inside and lay eggs inside the hueco and it was thought better to not disturb them.
By karl vochatzer
From: Cedar City, UT
Dec 30, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I found the placement to be contrived and a bit of a PITA to clip for the grade. Two prior bolts are knocked into their bolt holes in the face below and just right of the flakey-edged pocket as reference to where the protection used to be. As of Dec 29, 2014, there were no birds, no nests, no X and I had no issues with any of the rock in the pocket or the two huecos above and below each other under the new-ish sport anchors. I did have an issue with the rope location due to the moved last bolt for the footwork I wanted to use between it and the bolt below it. I commend the intention of the relocation, however I contend the chosen location, for what it's worth. BTW, bird nests are temporary. A note attached to the start of the route or on the first bolt might have been a more reasonable action at the time of the occurrence. But I wasn't there, maybe I would have done similarly.

Adam, I concur that it feels harder than the logged 10d. For what it's worth, Jeff Jackson had it listed at 11- in TX Limestone II in 1996. With the moved 4th bolt, there's justification for an 11b rating.
By Graham L
Aug 14, 2017



Climbing the warm up

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