|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 30'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]|
|FA:||Ben Rosenberg and Mike Bannister|
|Submitted By:||ben rosenberg on Apr 4, 2006|
|Comments on Mike's Short Route||Add Comment|
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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Apr 6, 2006
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
This felt harder than 5.9, but only for 2 meters. Then again, we did it in sub-freezing temperatures at sunrise. I suspect it might be easier for smaller people, and Mike is a Hobbit, so I can see where he is coming from....
Climb the easy slab with a hand crack in the corner, put in overhead gear (larger) then pull into a lieback and some grunting for a body length. A #5 Camalot is at the knees for a crux exit, but there is some suspect rock around, so be attentive to place it carefully. I think this would be a very hard and potentially dangerous for a 5.9 leader.
To belay, walk back 5m from the top and sling a few big rocks.
If only the climb were taller than 25', it would get more stars and respect.
Post script edit:
Mike has admitted that the assigned grade was a sandbag and was assigned because this is the 'traditional offwidth sandbag grade.'