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Mike's Dihedral T,TR 

Mike's Dihedral 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Doug Redosh, LP?
Page Views: 410
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Aug 11, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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A topo.

Description 

This is a tiny pitch of fairly nice granite up and left of the main face of Jericho. It certainly catches your eye as you climb on the Triangles or look up and left from lower Jericho. It looks a bit loose from a distance, but a mild cleaning gave up a bit of nice climbing. Mike Endicott suggested the line but was unable to be there for our first go.

On FA, we rapped in to avoid harming the rope with rock cleaning. We approached fairly similarly as for the main part of Jericho but aimed for a flattish, cap-like boulder above this corner. You can also traverse carefully from the top of Jericho on a grassy but exposed ledge.

We belayed off to the side with a #4 Camlot (old size) to the left, but small cams can work. Pulling up into the dihedral tempts one to step on the jutting flake on the right, but that'll go, so you can use a foothold just below to be safe. A short climber may find the start reachy. Continue up the dihedral and look left for pro. At times, the right wall will lure you. Near the top, the crux seems to involve trusting or not trusting a feldspar-rich hold (I didn't).

Beware of the cactus up and right on the topout ledge.

Location 

This is up and left of the Jericho buttress. The start is left of the top of The Horns of Jericho.

Protection 

The dihedral protects with mostly small cams, blue Alien to #0.75 Camalot and a #3 Camalot. A #4 Camalot to belay at the start is nice. The belay at the top can be a #0.5, #2, yellow and red Aliens with long slings.


Photos of Mike's Dihedral Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: From below.
From below.
Rock Climbing Photo: Doug romps upward.
Doug romps upward.

Comments on Mike's Dihedral Add Comment
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By Josh
From: Golden, CO
Aug 13, 2015

Nice addition, Leo and Doug! Hooray for more trad at the Tiers. Could you approach the bottom of this line from the top anchors of Horns of Jericho, or are you recommending rapping in only?
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Aug 14, 2015

Josh, I think you could carefully approach from the top of Jericho. It is a grassy, ledgy area; however, there is enough steepness to really hurt if you were not careful enough. It's probably a little less intimidating than getting to Joy of My World. Note, we rapped in, climbed back up, and then scrambled down to Jericho, so this is supposition. Still, to be safe, rap in, and climb off the top.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Sep 7, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The route is not bad, but it is too short to be a "destination" climb. It is fun if you are already at Jericho. One can belay a second using the tree up top as an anchor.

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