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Mighty Dog 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: FA: Alan Nelson. FFA: Jimmy Menendez, Fall, 1999
Page Views: 5,643
Submitted By: Nate Weitzel on Apr 1, 2001

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Keith chalking up on Mighty Dog, getting ready to ...

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This is the best and hardest line on the Dog House formation. The route pulls through the big overhang just left of Big Dog, and cranks through the roof on small crimps to a good jug. Some interesting moves up the overhung beginning gain a beautiful rest, followed by the crux sequence on small holds.


Approximately 10 bolts?, two bolt anchor.

Photos of Mighty Dog Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jesse pullin' at the lip.
Jesse pullin' at the lip.
Rock Climbing Photo: Working up the first half of the route.
Working up the first half of the route.
Rock Climbing Photo: At the final jug.
At the final jug.
Rock Climbing Photo: Unfinished business.
Unfinished business.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ben Lindfors sticking the final jug on Mighty Dog.
Ben Lindfors sticking the final jug on Mighty Dog.
Rock Climbing Photo: Nick H. on Mighty Dog.
Nick H. on Mighty Dog.

Comments on Mighty Dog Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 18, 2016
By Nate Weitzel
Aug 2, 2001

The rating that I listed on this route was after talking with the climber from Golden who told me that he got the First Free Ascent of the route, with Rolofson's permission. He rated it 12c. There definitely is a great no-hands rest if you find the appropriate kneebar right before you pull the crux moves. The crux is tough, but not any more difficult than any of the moves on Sucking My Will to Live at the Primo Wall. Sucking is my benchmark for 12c in the canyon as it is a tough 12c. Mighty Dog is not really comparable to the Anarchy wall routes because of the very overhung nature of the route. But, believe me, there are some trick foot beta and kneebars on Mighty Dog that give you excellent rests on this route, paring down the crux to the two bolt section before the lip.
By Anonymous Coward
Dec 11, 2002

Holy uninspiring climbs, Batman! Got all psyched up to do this overhanging route, and poof, a cush drilled pocket right off the ground. No matter, keep going for the roof, ok, get ready to grip out under the roof on non-positive holds--it "is" 12c, after all--and woof! my hand disappeared into an enormous overstuffed barcalounger-comfortable hold, then another, and another! What a let-down. came down, and went to the gym to feel what a good manufactured route feels like.
By Anonymous Coward
Dec 11, 2002

Or maybe that was the line next to it.
By Nate Weitzel
Dec 12, 2002

AC: I think you are referring to the line next to mighty dog, called fiddler on the roof. Completely manufractured holds through the roof, quite disappointing if you were not expecting it. MIghty Dog however is natural as far as I know and a worthy line that actually holds the grade of 12c. Try it.

By Kris S
From: Ocean Beach, SF
Feb 26, 2008

Has anyone climbed the sloper sequence that traverses under the roof? It climbs much more solid rock and doesn't depend on the climber having pencil-thin fingers. This variation doesn't require skipping any clips, but does decrease the difficulty of the roof slightly in my opinion. Thoughts?
By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Feb 29, 2008
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

I replaced that ratty old sling at the crux with a newer draw. The shorter draw does not affect rope drag and is much easier to clip in the wind. If someone would rather put a sling up there, I will gladly take my draw back.
By Adam Peters
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Mar 2, 2008
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Probably needs a chain for that draw. In between a normal bone and that long sling size. Weren't there chains up there before?
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 2, 2008
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

The new draw works for me, but I clipped it when I was past it. The long sling before let you clip before committing to the flake crimps. Either way is fine. The rest of the bolts have chain draws as of yesterday.
By Jamie gatchalian
From: denver, co
Apr 24, 2008
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

The first crimp in the crux (after the glued jug) isn't so bad to clip off of as long as you work your feet correctly.
From: broomdigiddy
Jan 19, 2009

I clipped off Gatch's beta.
There is a big ol foot out under the roof to the left that made this much easier.

There is probably a drilled pocket on every climb on this wall. Nature of the beast at the dong wall.
By D@n Morta
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 8, 2009

'There definitely is a great no-hands rest if you find the appropriate kneebar right before you pull the crux moves.'

Can anyone describe the no-hands rest kneebar before the crux? Nate?
From: broomdigiddy
Feb 18, 2009

The knee bar that I used was before clipping the bolt before the roof. After traversing out on the rails, firing to the crimp and pulling up you can sink your right knee in to lock off and make an easy rest and clip before pulling up to the roof.
By Kai Huang
From: Aurora, CO
Apr 12, 2009

Matt "Hip Hop" MCkee crushing The Mighty Dog, 12c, at Clear Creek Canyon, Golden, CO.

Watch it in HD.

Short man's beta.

By Mark Rolofson
Feb 10, 2011
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

The first free ascent of this route was by Jimmy Menendez in Fall 1999. After having climbed in Clear Creek since 1991, I have a very hard time calling this route only 5.12c. I have done Sucking My Will To Live, Anarchitect, Great Escape, Ken T'ank, Maestro, Head Like A Hole (to mention a few 5.12c & 5.12d climbs). All these routes were easier than Mighty Dog. I have also watched other climbers on this route. Some of them 5.13 climbers. The ratings I have heard vary from 5.12d to 5.13a/b. If you are tall and skinny with pencil fingers, it will be easier to get your fingertips in the flake in the ceiling than if you have fat fingers. Still, Great Escape on the Wall Of Justice is a much easier route. Perhaps Mighty Dog doesn't cater to my strengths, but I have learned I am not the only one.
By Hank Caylor
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Feb 21, 2011

Not in the same category, not even a little.
By Keith H. North
From: Englewood, CO
Jul 7, 2011
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Mr. Nick, I am 100% with you.

Using Mighty Dog as comparison, WHAT??? the softest 12c in the canyon....
Mighty Dog is not 13a, compare it to Sonic Youth, now post broken hold widely accepted 13a, or Anarchitect (spelling unsure) stiff 12d, or Pizza Dick, 12c all three routes harder than Mighty Dog.

Either way, ratings are so subjective they are just a starting point, and it's not as if any of us 12/13 climbers are getting sponsored.
By gordwah
From: colorado
Feb 18, 2012
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

I am 12 yrs old and around 5'1", have done around twenty or so 5.12s outside, and have been working on a 5.13a proj. Mighty Dog is equally cruxy and pumpy. Mighty Dog is pumpy enough where I would give it a 12d/13a grade, because even though the moves are technically not that hard, it provides enough pump because of the extreme overhang to make the moves feel 5.12d/13a. However, if I was 2 or three inches taller, I would have crushed this route.
By Train4life
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 16, 2015
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

I personally thought that this was easier than Big Dog (I probably didn't do the right beta...who knows?). I think it is mid-range 12c but not a particularly stout one and certainly not 12d/13a...but who's fun as hell. Get on the climb and just have a blast! Really great climb, the flake is sharp as hell and can make the top painful and not as fun, but the rest of the climb is awesome!
By Ben Coryell
Dec 18, 2016

Many of the holds have epoxy holding them onto the wall. Sure hope it holds up some of these flakes you pull on! Nonetheless, a cool route with some interesting movement!

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