||Sport, Mixed, 1 pitch, 90'
|Original: ||M8-9 [details]|
|FA: ||Lucy Creamer on gear|
|Page Views: ||1,764|
|Submitted By: ||Daniel Battin on Jan 4, 2010|
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Beautiful direct overhanging line up the Dizzy Buttress. Small reachy holds that are mostly positive.
This line is on the left (more prominent) side of the Dizzy Buttress.
Bolts, maybe one screw at the bottom if you're not cool with the first bolt at about 20 feet. Bolt anchors at the top.
By philippe wheelock
Feb 21, 2010
I think it's important to note that this route has at least three recorded ascents on gear including the first ascent by Lucy. She preplaced 4-5 pieces on rappel and essentially headpointed the route. Despite rumors of absurdly long slings and other shenanigans, she led the route clean with pre-placed gear without ever having the gotten the route clean on toprope. She did not have excessive slings or tat protecting the route and the second clip (above the piton) still had serious ledge fall potential. It should also be noted that she was the first and only one working the route and many of the positive holds found today were thin and cryptic and far less positive than they are now. I know because I belayed her on multiple attempts including her redpoint.
That said, Andres Marin just redpointed the route ground up placing gear on lead. A proud ascent for someone who last year on-sighted the route on bolts. A beautiful line that has in the last year with the addition of bolts become one of the most popular mixed routes in the park.