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Midway Rock

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Midway Rock Rock Climbing 


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Location: 40.85265, -123.70956 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 536
Administrators: Rick Shull, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Evan Wisheropp on Aug 16, 2015
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Routes left to right: The Delicate Tiger (5.10a...

Description 

Midway Rock is a set of several pillars 200 yards east of Pinch Me Wall. From Pinch Me Wall it only looks like a tiny Boulder, but once you get around to the north face of the north pinnacle it suddenly pops out with a whopping 85' drop, one of the tallest at LOTL. The chains are 15' below the top of the spire to prevent rope drag, but you can easily set a top rope off gear.

There are currently three very fun bolted 5.10b routes.

Getting There 

From Pinch Me Wall, hike directly east following a trail and cairns. 20 yards into the trail, instead of continuing the trail for the northeast side of Bigfoot Mating Grotto, turn right and follow a trail through the brush. Hike 200 yards across the slope following a well defined trail and cairns.

3-5 minute easy approach from Pinch Me Wall.

Climbing Season

For the Land of the Lost area.

Weather station 6.8 miles from here

3 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',2],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Midway Rock
Rock Climbing Photo: Ben Flores pulling the crux of Massif Groove.

Massif Groove 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  California : Redwood Coast : ... : Midway Rock
Massif Groove is a unique and very enjoyable 9 bolt line that should be on everyone's LOTL ticklist. The route starts up three bolts of steep mega-jugs before a roof. Clip the fourth bolt with a long draw or sling to prevent any rope drag; only two more easy moves will get you to the fifth bolt. The crux is pulling over the roof on devious but sizable jugs. Finish with four more bolts, intersecting with Delicate Tiger at the last two....[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of Midway Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The approach from Pinch Me Wall (right) to Midway ...
The approach from Pinch Me Wall (right) to Midway ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Midway Rock viewed from the Upper Tier Tropics.
Midway Rock viewed from the Upper Tier Tropics.

Comments on Midway Rock Add Comment
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By Evan A.
Aug 23, 2015
Great potential on this rock! and it is surprisingly solid!

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