Midway Rock Rock Climbing
As you might have guessed, Midway Rock is located about halfway up to the Sugarloaf proper. By the time the trail makes a sharp right before getting steeper, you will have already noticed the distinctive gaping maw of a crack called Self Abuse
directly in front of you on the South face of Midway.
There are a handful or more face climbs on the rock to the left of Self Abuse, and to the right several lieback and jamming cracks, as well as a sport route or three.
Follow the trail from the power plant as approaching Sugarloaf. About halfway up, you cannot miss this overgrown boulder with a wide crack in the center. Allow 10-15 minutes to approach.
Climbing Season For the Sugarloaf area.
Weather station 10.2 miles from here
11 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Midway Rock
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Midway Rock
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Midway Rock:
Self Abuse 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Featured Route For Midway Rock
Self Abuse 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b CA
: ... : Midway Rock
Put away the old flogging whip and pay the penance for your sinful ways on Self Abuse instead. This flaring maw of a crack starts with some sharp finger locks you will combine with lower body slab and chimney techniques to surmount. The hand jams following this bouldery crux section quickly lead to the flaring squeeze chimney you will grow to know, and, well, probably hate.If the reason for this climb's name has not become apparent to you at some point during the squeeze, your technique is more ...[more] Browse More Classics in CA