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Midway Direct 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: TM Herbert, Eric Bjornstad, R. Neufer, 1960.
Page Views: 4,129
Submitted By: Blitzo on Oct 8, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (42)
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BETA PHOTO: View of Pitch 1 - Chimney between Jello Tower on t...

Seasonal Raptor Closure: Noontime and Midnight Rock MORE INFO >>>


Climb straight up the dihedral, after the step across, then move left on to exposed face. From a ledge, several variations, to the top are possible.


Pro to 2".

Photos of Midway Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: 1st pitch, I had trouble finding protection near t...
BETA PHOTO: 1st pitch, I had trouble finding protection near t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Michelle topping out on Midway Direct
Michelle topping out on Midway Direct
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down Midway to the South Face Tower and th...
BETA PHOTO: Looking down Midway to the South Face Tower and th...

Comments on Midway Direct Add Comment
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By Adam Volwiler
Jun 20, 2011

Stepping from Jello Tower is really fun. I thought the first pitch up to the top of Jello Tower was a bit stiff for 5.6 but it protected well by just sliding a #4. Great route.
By vancewalstra
May 18, 2016

totally stiff for a 5.6. Pretty sure this was a Becky route which explains the stiffness. Great climb though! It can just be overwhelming when someone is a 5.6 trad climber and they get on one of Becky's old routes to be welcomed with more challenge than anticipated. I did that first pitch when I first started trad and I was intimidated... Throw some strong howling winds through that OW in the corner and yea. I'd say be confident on 5.7/8. Then again, maybe it was just the wind.
By Chris Merz
From: Bellevue, WA
Aug 13, 2016

Pro gets sparse on pitch one...unless you bring the camalot #4. Don't wear a pack else your pitch 1 will be miserable - sling it below you or just leave it at the base. The step off jello tower is classic! Descent is a walk off the top so bring approach shoes.
By Vikram Sahney
Aug 29, 2016

Here is a video showing some of Saber and Midway Direct.

By Sam Cannon
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 5, 2016

Got some good beta from a local at the base for some route-finding. Continue up the corner instead of stepping right after the step-across. Once you get to the alcove with the poop (guano?) head left out onto the face and then up on good holds. From there it seemed like there were quite a few options; follow your nose. I was able to take a more-or-less-straight line.

I thought the climbing felt more exposed and a bit more consistent, offering a great alternative to the standard route.

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