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Midori Corner 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: M. Rangel, S. Sugimoto, S. Winkler
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 344
Submitted By: manuel rangel on Apr 6, 2009

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Description 

The climb ascends a broken chimney/stemfest to an awkward bulge, gains a ledge then up the leaning dihedral with a widening crack to top.

The route begins off the trail on a 50' buttress with an easy 5th class crack on right or 5.9 finger crack in center. Gain the large ledge, walk left to an oak tree for a belay. Climb leftmost broken chimney, staying left to the obvious dihedral to top.

Protection 

sm to med nuts, doubles to #3 camalot, (1) #3.5, #4 camalot; gear belay.

Location 

As you get to the North Wall along the trail, look for a prominent roof with a hand crack @ 100' above. This route is just left of it. Rappel Impaired Rendition anchors w/double 60m ropes (visible just north of route); use caution when approaching anchors.


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