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Midnight Rock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
After Midnight S 
Caboose, The S 
Cage, The T 
Caged Bird of Pray T 
Cirque du Soleil S 
Crack a Smile S 
Deus Ex Machina S 
Dyno Mart S 
Engine, The T,S 
Flake Out S 
Geminae Cracks S 
Grande Finale S 
Hack a Drone S 
Hammer Down S 
Jet Stream T 
Karma Chameleon S 
Meltdown S 
Midnight Cowboy S 
Midnight Express S 
Pirate Radar S 
Pirate Radar Direct T 
Rycessica T 
Stroke of Midnight, The S 
Union with Earth S 
Voila S 
Weather Report S 

Midnight Rock Rock Climbing 

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Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ben Mottinger on Jan 1, 2001


47° | 32°

54° | 38°

55° | 39°

54° | 40°

58° | 40°
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BETA PHOTO: Upper and Lower Dream Canyon Modified from origin...

Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


There are a number good routes here and there with most of the quality routes in the 11-12 range. A 60m rope may be required to lower off some routes.

A total of 25 routes, most sport routes in the 5.10 to 5.12 range, are documented in Mark Rolofson's new guidebook Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide, Vol. I: Lower Narrows to Dream Canyon.

A number of new routes have been developed here in the past few years by Vaino Kodas and partners; see Vaino's Midnight Rock routes for details.

L->R lower rock, starting from the ground (incomplete):

A. The Cage, 9+ R, 1p, 70', gear.
B. Birds Of Prey, 10 R, gear.
C. Cirque Du Soleil, 12, 1p, 50', bolts.
D. Hammer Down, 11, 1p, 60', bolts.
E. Union With Earth, 10, 70', gear & bolts.
F. Around Midnight, 13?, bolts & pin.
G. Flake Out, 12, 1p, 80', bolts.
H. Meltdown, 10+, 1p, 80', bolts.
IJ. Pirate Radar Direct, 12 R, 1p, 40', gear.
J. Pirate Radar, 11+, 40', bolts & pins & gear.
K. Jet Stream, 12-, 1p, 50', gear & bolts.
L. Midnight Cowboy, 12-, 1p, 90', bolts.
ML. After Midnight, 11, 1p, bolts.
M. Midnight Express, 10+, 1p, 90', gear.
O. The Stroke Of Midnight, 10+, 1p, 90', bolts.
P. Weather Report, 9-, 1p, 80', bolts.
Q. Hack a Drone, 10+, 1p, 75', bolts.
R. Crack A Smile, 11, 1p, 80', bolts & gear.
S. Grand Finale, 12+ PG-13, 1p, bolts.
T. Voila, 12-, 1p, 70', bolts.

Upper Ledge L->R:

AA. Engine, 10+, 50', gear & bolts.
BB. The Caboose, 11, 50', bolts.
CC. Karma Kamelian, 11+ PG-13, 90', bolts.
DD. Headwall, 12?, bolts.
EE. Geminae Cracks, 13-, 40', bolts & gear.
FF. Rycessica, 10+, 1p, 25', gear.
GG. Deux Ex Machina, 11, 60', bolts.
HH. Dyno Mart, 12-, 60', bolts.

. Pirate Radio

Getting There 

Hike as you would to Lost Angel from the parking lot. Take the big gully to the East of Lost Angel down to the rock.

Climbing Season

Weather station 5.1 miles from here

26 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',14],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Midnight Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Midnight Rock:
Weather Report   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch   
Meltdown   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Hack a Drone   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   
Hammer Down   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Jet Stream   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Voila   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   
Midnight Cowboy   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Cirque du Soleil   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Geminae Cracks   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Midnight Rock

Featured Route For Midnight Rock
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt Bebe on Voila, photo: Bob Horan.

Voila 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a  Colorado : Boulder : ... : Midnight Rock
This is located up and around the corner to the right from Weather Report. Climb the steep colorful wall just right of Grande Finale....[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

Photos of Midnight Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Midnight Rock, left side.  A. The Cage 9+ R, gear....
BETA PHOTO: Midnight Rock, left side. A. The Cage 9+ R, gear....
Rock Climbing Photo: Midnight Rock - lower right side.
BETA PHOTO: Midnight Rock - lower right side.
Rock Climbing Photo: Midnight Rock, photo: Bob Horan.
Midnight Rock, photo: Bob Horan.
Rock Climbing Photo: Midnight Rock, upper right side.  Deus Ex Machina ...
BETA PHOTO: Midnight Rock, upper right side. Deus Ex Machina ...

Comments on Midnight Rock Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris Cavallaro
Aug 1, 2006
Are these routes and the routes on Vanishing Point in the shade during the summer, and if so, what times? Morning? Afternoon?
By Garrett Bales
From: Lake City, CO
Apr 7, 2013
Pretty sad little crag, many of the routes probably shouldn't exist....
The crag faces southwest and west, and it gets pretty good sun.

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