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(08) The Far Side I
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Midnight Rider 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Eric Grompper & Mark Thomas
Page Views: 253
Submitted By: Shirtless Mike on Jun 15, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

Start slightly right of the bolt line on easy ground to a nice ledge. Pull a difficult mantle to reach the third bolt, being careful of the ledge, decking potential here. From here things get hard without using the left crack. Make a series of thin moves to get to and pass the 5th bolt and reach the anchors.

Location 

Between "Surfer Boy and the Shrimp" and an unknown wide crack.

Protection 

5 Bolts to chain anchors


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By Shirtless Mike
Administrator
From: Denver, CO
Jun 15, 2008

While the Bernard Moret guide calls this an easy tick at 11c, I found the top of this line to be considerably harder than 11c, more like 12b. Was I missing something or have some holds broken off? Much much easier if the left hand crack is used, somewhat contrived as it is easily within reach, but that is Palomas climbing.
By Paul Davidson
Sep 7, 2009

Bernard loved thin cranks and once told me he found them easy.
I think a number of his ratings reflect that preference.

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