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Midnight In A Perfect World 

Hueco: V9-10 Font: 7C+

   
Type:  Boulder
Original:  Hueco: V9-10 Font: 7C+ [details]
FA: Jeremiah Johnson
Page Views: 1,511
Submitted By: Jeremiah Johnson on Aug 19, 2007

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The amazing 'Midnight In A Perfect World' (v9/10).

Description 

This is a very hard dynamic slab problem. Start by stemming in the scoop to reach left hand up to a small thumb-undercling. Match the thumb-undercling and reach out left to a terrible ripple of a crimp. Get your right foot very high on an insecure, glassy edge and generate enough momentum to launch you high and right to a good crimp on the edge of the scoop. You'll probably lose all other points of contact with the wall when you hit the crimp. Control it, match, then follow good flakes up and over the top. The finish is a little high but very easy compared to the rest. A very good problem for those that can appreciate a hard slab climb.

Location 

Follow the main trail up; when the main trail turns right, stay on it. 100 - 200 yards from the turn, start looking into the woods on the left for a tall, just-under-vertical scoop-like wall just up and off the trail behind some pines (it's a little hard to see). That's the one.

Protection 

A couple pads and a spot. The landing seems flat, but it's easy to roll your ankle here anyway.


Photos of Midnight In A Perfect World Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Sticking the dyno on 'Midnight In A Perfect Wo...
Sticking the dyno on 'Midnight In A Perfect Wo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Holding the swing after stickng the dyno on 'M...
Holding the swing after stickng the dyno on 'M...
Rock Climbing Photo: The beautiful scooped slab that is Midnight in a P...
The beautiful scooped slab that is Midnight in a P...

Comments on Midnight In A Perfect World Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 9, 2016
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Nov 8, 2015
rating: V9-10 7C+

I climbed this obscure and amazing line today. One of the coolest climbs I've done at Pway and definitely one of the most unique.

The dyno is definitely the money move, but you need strong fingers and slab skills to get in a position to generate enough momentum to have a chance of latching the good edge. Hard to grade, but it felt similar in difficulty to me as 'Voodoo Child' and took me pretty much the same amount of time. (2 sessions)

Great vision by Jeremiah to see the beauty in this seemingly nondescript line.
By Graham O.
Nov 6, 2016

Footage starts at 0.13:
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Nov 6, 2016
rating: V9-10 7C+

It should be noted that the crimp that Keith uses in this video only became usable last summer and was not an option on the FA. I know this because I'm the one that broke it. Last summer, I had decided that I would make this line a Fall project, but the line had grown over a bit with lichen. So, I spent a few hours hanging off a rope cleaning the line. While cleaning the top, I had my left foot pressed against a small flake while I was vigorously scrubbing. Suddenly that flake broke and left the crimp that Keith uses up and left. I was bummed because I knew it was probably a handhold option now, though I was hoping it wouldn't work.

When I was working the line, I contemplated this option, but I felt that it wouldn't represent, for me personally, the challenge that the first ascentionist had faced and it wouldn't be in the spirit of the original line. So, I opted for the dyno option and I'm really glad that I did. It was a really cool and unique move. And a memory that will stay with me. I think the dyno way is also more in line with the v9/10 grade.

Obviously, Keith didn't know about the broken crimp, so this is not an attempt to diminish his send in any way. And it's still definitely hard that way, though probably a bit easier than the original method. And now that it's there, it's certainly an option for those interested in this line. However, if you wish to the do the line as it was originally done, with the options that were available to the first ascentionist, you also have that option.

Anyhow, just wanted to shed some light on the differing beta options.
By Jake Perry
From: Concord, NH
Nov 9, 2016

Thanks for the info Christian! I'm planning on getting out to this very soon, I checked it out and it looks incredible. Cool to know that the dyno way really was the only way originally, I think I'll try to avoid that hold now that I know it wasn't part of the original line. Also thanks for cleaning it!

Do you have footage of your send? If so I'd really like to see it if your willing to share it.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Nov 10, 2016
rating: V9-10 7C+

Jake-

I responded to your email.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Nov 11, 2016
rating: V9-10 7C+

I climbed this again today. And this time I got it on video, so I'll post it up at some point, though it's going to be a while as I'm heading back to Colorado tomorrow, so I'll be pretty busy for the next couple weeks.
By Graham O.
Nov 11, 2016

Awesome! I'd love to see the dyno method. This is one of my dream projects.

On a side note, there is a beautiful 18' slab right above it, and it appears to be blank. It has potential to be a v10 four star classic!
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Nov 25, 2016
rating: V9-10 7C+

I reclimbed this line this Fall in order to get video of the original (dyno) method, which is the way I've always done it. I imagine that when I sent it last year it was the likely second ascent. And yes, there are more possibilities for hard slabs in the Fire Tower area. Anyhow, footage of this climb begins at 5:38

By Troy Fauteux
From: Henniker NH
Nov 28, 2016

Nice video Christian! This problem has been getting a lot of attention recently. Thanks for recleaning it. Definitely a hidden gem.
By Ian McAfee
From: Concord, NH
Dec 7, 2016
rating: V10 7C+

Bad news everyone.

I was able to repeat this while a friend was working on it, and while topping out I put my right foot on the jug you dyno to and it snapped off. The hold isn't a bucket vertical flake anymore but now a closer and still very good almost two-pad edge, I didn't want to try the move after that happened, but said friend (she's a monster) almost stuck it post-break. I'm not sure if it's any harder, maybe a bit, but I don't think it's any easier. it definitely still goes though. After brushing/cleaning the remaining hold, it looks perfectly solid, flat, and friendly. Thankfully the jug didn't break off when I double-clutched to it...

Apologies!
By Jeremiah Johnson
From: Contoocook, NH
Dec 9, 2016

That hold had a little flex in it 10+ years ago when I did the problem; it was bound to go eventually. Glad it left something!
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Dec 9, 2016
rating: V9-10 7C+

You're just too strong Ian. Even the rock is weaker than you. :)

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