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Midnight Express 

Hueco: V14 Font: 8B+

Type:  Boulder, 15'
Original:  Hueco: V14 Font: 8B+ [details]
FA: Tyler Landman December 2007
Page Views: 9,095
Submitted By: Peter Beal on Dec 17, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Climber: Daniel Woods. Photo: Andy Mann.

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  • Description 

    Up the hill from the south face of Castle is a low outcropping/boulder with an obvious arete and flake. Start low on sharp sidepull with your right hand and a very low sidepull for your left. There have been ascents done starting with the big pinch just left of the right sidepull but the FA was done with the first method. Battle your way past several desperate moves up the flake to a perilous finish at the lip.

    Certainly one of the most classic lines on the Front Range with easy access and a compelling line. Should have been picked off years ago but Ty came up with the goods.


    Look south uphill from the bridge below Country Club. Hidden a bit by trees.


    A healthy number of pads and spotter.

    Photos of Midnight Express Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Luke Childers working the classic power line "...
    Luke Childers working the classic power line "...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Luke Childers getting ready to make the left hand ...
    Luke Childers getting ready to make the left hand ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Photo beta for "Midnight Express (V14)."
    BETA PHOTO: Photo beta for "Midnight Express (V14)."
    Rock Climbing Photo: Midnight Express Boulder.
    Midnight Express Boulder.

    Comments on Midnight Express Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Luke Childers
    Aug 24, 2009

    Holly... MAN... this is the mother of all lines!! I loved this problem more than life!! Although I couldn't do the first two moves, which is the bizz, I was able to work out the rest of the problem to my total satisfaction!! The line is like gold!!!! The top-out is scary because of the death landing but the holds were good enough for me to relax and top-out. Just need to put that opening sequence together and I will never ask for any thing ever again.

    I'm an addict of "Midnight Express" now!! The opening sequence could take me the rest of my life but this is my forever until sent project!! Just a great problem with moves that exist only in our dreams. It's a must do!!
    By Luke Childers
    Aug 25, 2009

    Worked on the bottom for a short while and got my butt off the ground... so that was exciting!! Now I've go to stick the chip like undercling and I will put this hog away. Still looking for the best solution for the opening moves on this sweetheart. I just love this line man!!! The top-out is still spooky though!

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