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Big Hunk (Southwest Face)
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Midnight Dreamer 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Tony Yaniro and Randy Leavitt, December 1978
Page Views: 467
Submitted By: Murf on Oct 30, 2011

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Team Blue on Midnight Dreamer.


Move through a small roof at the bottom and climb the crack through a series of ledges. The best top out is to clip the last bolt of The Black Tuna and move through the headwall to a two bolt anchor.


The South Face of Big Hunk is located in the corridor between between Big and Little Hunk. Walk through the valley between Snickers - North Face and Little Hunk. Circle around SW Face Right (Monkey Business Wall) to the left and continue past Little Hunk - NE Face (Left). The south face it on the right through some boulders. This route is located on the high right portion of the face with dark rock.


There is a modern bolt protecting the move through the roof; Standard rack.

Photos of Midnight Dreamer Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Midnight Dreamer (5.9), Joshua Tree NP
BETA PHOTO: Midnight Dreamer (5.9), Joshua Tree NP

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By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Dec 6, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Bolt protection was placed nicely and easy to clip and protect the upcoming moves. No lead today (easily TR'd from neighboring route) but seems to take basically .5 to 3.0 cams with as many stoppers as you'd want to carry.

I found this route to be very enjoyable and easy finish past the last 2 bolts to shared ring anchors. Fun, enjoyable and absolutely worth it while there. Perhaps the best of all?
By Sean
From: Oak Park, CA
Nov 22, 2016

3 bolts total (1 at start plus the finishing 2 on adjacent The Black Tuna), rack of doubles from 0.3 (green Aliens) to #1 (Red BD) plus single #2 and #3 plus stoppers

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