Midlife Crisis Variation
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This route is up and around to the right from 5.10 face, and Sheer Class on Little Scraggy Dome. Look for the second wide crack in the right part of the wall in sort of a left-facing corner that doesn't quite touch down. Either scramble over a couple blocky roofs, or traverse from the left on an exposed slab. Work up the wide crack for a ways, traverse around a block, and to the anchors. The crack is mostly #4.5 Camalot size, and squeezes down to #4 Camalot size every so often.
A couple of hand-sized pieces and a couple of large cams. I used a #4, and a #4.5 Camalot, and had to walk them a couple times. Two of each of those, or just two #4.5s that size would be nice. 2-bolt anchor.
Eddie making it look easy on lead. (I thrashed, an...
By Jay Eggleston
Apr 8, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I brought 2 #5 Camalots on this, and I wish I had brought 3. I know you have to go above gear on a climb at some point, but I kept moving the cams up as I climbed. If you are a solid off width climber, you would not care, but 3 would have made me feel better.