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Midlife Crises 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Rick Cobb, Mike Turner, Tom Callicutt, ? Parkinson - 1995
Page Views: 130
Submitted By: Ben Sachs on Jan 26, 2009

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This is a very obscure route. I don't think it even made the topo in Selected Climbs. It climbs much better than it looks from the ground though and is very worthy. Looks slabby, but it is actually quite pumpy at times. I'm posting it here in hopes that someone will climb it and beat back the lichen. I doubt it has seen any traffic lately, so it might need cleaning.


Slabby-looking buttress to the right of Fire Wall with some bolts 15' up. Ends at the Hanging Garden.


Bolts, pins, gear. Protects reasonably well, the bolts seem solid. Interestingly, this might be the only route at Moores that you can easily top-rope without leading anything. Used to be my go-to TR solo for training. There is a bomber tree anchor you can access via the Hanging Garden gully. I think you need at least a 70m for TR, maybe 2 ropes.

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By erik danielson
Apr 29, 2009

i think mike turner got fa
By nbrown
From: western NC
Sep 20, 2010

I believe the "FA" was a group effort including mike turner and tom callicut. It was reportedly top-roped a good bit beforehand... Actually the true FA was probably done by tim fisher as a wandering line before the bolts and pin were added. The second bolt is located in a bizzarre spot to clip.
By Ryan Williams
From: London (sort of)
Oct 17, 2011
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Really like this route. Hope I have a change to do it clean before it gets too cold.
By Matt Westlake
From: Durham, NC
May 27, 2014

TR'ed this recently and have a couple things to add:

At the time of this note, there is a rap station up here around one of the bigger trees (green and black cord + quicklink and ring). We set up on this one but you really want to set up on another big tree a little higher up and closer (climber's left) to the Fire Wall. There are 4? bolts I think, two at the bottom and two up top. Given where we were I think we ended up climbing the lower part of Midlife Crisis and the upper part of Sandbox but not sure about where we switched from one to the other.

Anyway, the first two bolts worth of climbing was interesting but had a fierce layer of lichen and sand making it seriously treacherous. I would HIGHLY recommend cleaning it before making an attempt to lead it. There are a lot of small crimps and slopers to deal with and the sand made it kinda dicey particularly approaching and near the second bolt. Bolts seemed a bit rusty but maybe ok? Don't think I'd want to fall on them from very far out.

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