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Midi - Tacul

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Aiguille du Midi 
Grand Capucin 
Mont Blanc du Tacul 
Pointe Adolphe Rey 

Midi - Tacul Rock Climbing 

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Location: 45.86903, 6.89171 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Euan Cameron, Luc-514, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: kenr on Jun 29, 2017

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Rap anchor at the top!


This area has routes and peaks around the high west side of the Geant glacier (upper Mer de Glace) which normally use the Aiguille du Midi lift for access or descent.

Mont Blanc du Tacul ("the Tacul") is famous + popular for ice and snow routes, and other dramatic peaks and their satellite towers are famous for granite multi-pitch.

Aiguille du Midi ("the Midi"), in addition to providing quick mechanical lift access, also has famous mixed ice/snow/rock routes, and at least one famous popular granite rock route.

There are other important climbing peaks, including Grand Capucin, Pointes de Lachenal, etc.

This Midi-Tacul area is frequently crossed by ski mountaineers and off-piste downhill skiers in winter and spring.

It is also the starting point for a popular technical snow/ice route for reacning the summit of Mont Blanc, called "The Three Mont Blancs" (the first of the "three" is Mont Blanc du Tacul).

The Refuge des Cosmiques hut is the main sleeping base for this area. Though many routes are successfully done as day-trips using the lift both up and down. It's also legal to sleep overnight on the glacier around Col du Midi flat in a tent, though need to check rules + laws about distance from the Refuge and perhaps taking the tent down during eacy day. There is no sleeping inside the structures connected with the lift top station.
. . Some of the routes (e.g. on the Grand Capucin) around the S + SE side of the Tacul are more easily reached from the Pointe Helbronner lift up fron Italy or sleeping at the Rifugio Torino hut (or camping on the glacier on the Combe Maudit flat).

Getting There 

Many routes normally use the Aiguille du Midi and Plan d'Aiguille lift for access and descent. Some routes on the Aiguille du Midi peak itself are accessed from the Plan d'Aiguille lift, then descended using the Aiguille Midi lift.
Bottom station (GPS lat long approx N45.9183 E6.8703) for the lifts is on the south side of the town of Chamonix.

Some routes and peaks on E + SE + S side of the Tacul are more easily accessed from the Pointe Helbronner lift or the Rifugio Torino hut connected with the lift top station. Bottom station for the Helbronner lift is in Italy near Courmayeur.
. . (note on return, do not need to hike all the way up to the lift top station -- instead can walk around to Rifugio Torino and take the elevator).

Although it is possible to hike from the Chamonix valley up to the top of the Plan d'Aiguille lift (perhaps necessary for descent if that lift is unexpectedly closed due to high winds), the only (possibly?) non-technical way to get anywhere near Mont Blanc du Tacul or the upper part of Aiguille du Midi would be a long long way around N + NE from Montenvers.

Climbing Season

For the Chamonix Mont Blanc area.

Weather station 11.7 miles from here

3 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Midi - Tacul

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Midi - Tacul:
Voie Rébuffat-Baquet   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Alpine, 11 pitches, 700'   Aiguille du Midi
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Midi - Tacul

Featured Route For Midi - Tacul
Rock Climbing Photo: the last crack of "la voie des Suisses" ...

Voie des Suisses - exit O Sole Mio 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  Europe : France : ... : Grand Capucin
Sustained interesting route up to a mythic summit. The least difficult route up a tower with no easy routes.. . (difficulty in French guidebooks / websites is usually given as III TD+ 6a).The full classic route has a difficult finish (5.10d whose hardest sequence could be aided but still leaves some 5.10b sequences). More parties nowadays finish on the route O Sole Mio (starts to left of "Suisses") whose climbing in its upper pitches is at least as interesting as on the full r...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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