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Midget Proof Direct 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: John Kear, Timy Fairfield, Brandi Proffitt
Page Views: 243
Submitted By: Shirtless Mike on Mar 29, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Midget Proof and variations

Description 

The direct start for Midget Proof offers thin crimping through several boulder problems until it joins Midget Proof at the sixth bolt. Climb easily past the first three bolts to a thin crimping warmup section to the 4th bolt. Grab one last good shake and launch into powerful thin section, clip the fixed fifth bolt, grab a quick shake and head into the crux, probably a V6 boulder problem. Afterwards obtain the choss huecos of Midget Proof, rummage through for the good solid holds and pull the final reachy moves out the roof.

An alternate 12b sequence exists if you head hard left at the 5th bolt to join Midget Proof earlier and skip the V6 crux.

Location 

Starts 15' right of and joins Midget Proof at the 6th bolt. On the right side of the Bat Cave.

Protection 

8 Bolts to Anchors, Need draws for the first 4 bolts.


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By Shirtless Mike
Administrator
From: Denver, CO
Mar 30, 2015

I had climbed this years ago ~2011, and had noted it as 5.12a. A few holds have broken since then leaving much harder climbing and a better route. Whats left seems quite solid.
By Shirtless Mike
Administrator
From: Denver, CO
Mar 1, 2016

After talking with some others who had gotten on this route, it might deserve an upgrade and the crux might be V7.

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