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Midget Magic 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Kimberly Craig
New Route: Yes
Season: winter, spring,fall
Page Views: 1,628
Submitted By: Chris Craig on Nov 28, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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Slab start continue up crack. Crux is at bolt 8-9. Route turns roof on the right.


10 feet downhill from Bosch it.


9 bolts to chain

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By Jimbo
Mar 19, 2010

Did this route yesterday. Good addition to the crag. Good exposure at the top.

We added quick links to the one biner and one chain link/biner that was on the anchor. So now it's an easy non rope twisting lower.
By Chris Craig
Jan 23, 2011

There are two bolt at the anchor with chain
From: tucson, az
Dec 18, 2011

Fun route. Mostly 5.6 5.7 with a couple 5.8 moves between last bolts. Added Mussy hooks at anchors.
By NickMartel
From: Tucson, Arizona
Feb 28, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Had a lot of fun on this. The others in my party traversed right onto the hanging slab below the last 2 bolts. I couldn't see it that way and followed crack up to the roof and then traversed right on hand and fist jams really fun like that IMHO. If only the top of the roof were not so smooth :)...
By Nathanwikstrom
From: flagstaff az
Feb 7, 2014

super fun climb! but watch out for HUGE bee hive about 5 feet right of bolt #5 or so I almost got swarmed myself
By canyonwren Lisa Levine
Oct 5, 2014

Re: Aug. 3 post from mcwinsto, we probably have your draws if your party bailed on this climb.

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