REI Community
West Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cryptogamic T,TR 
Knobelty S,TR 
Left Cheek, The S,TR 
Long Toe S,TR 
Middle Toe S,TR 
Pickin' It S,TR 
Sacroiliac Joint T,TR 
Sciatica T,TR 
Scratchin' It S,TR 
Short Toe T,TR 

Middle Toe 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Jerry Klatt and Ron Brown
Page Views: 795
Submitted By: Daniel Trugman on May 9, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]


The middle of three routes on the clean face on the far left side of the West Buttress. These routes are packed tightly together so you have to follow the bolt lines fairly precisely if you want the listed ratings.

For the "Middle Toe", make a tricky mantle start and then cruise slabby terrain until you reach a slight bulge. The crux is getting your feet over this bulge, and is very well protected by bolt three. From here, easier but still occassionally thought-provoking smearing leads to the anchor.

A good route to work on your friction technique.


Far left side, of the West Buttress, about 50 feet left (around the corner) from "Knobelty"

"Middle Toe" is, you guessed it, the middle of the three face climbs in this on this side of the crag. "Long Toe", 5.8, is just to its right, and "Short Toe", 5.10b (requires some gear), is just to its left.


4 or 5 bolts to a two-bolt anchor shared with the three "Toe" routes

Comments on Middle Toe Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About