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Middle Tier Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Middle Tier

L › R R › L A › Z

	Beach Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Betty's Beard TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	In the Buckets S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Jungle Book T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Pot Leaf Cave - Left Arete S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Secnar S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Two for One (left variation) TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Two for One (right variation) TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Two in One S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

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Elevation:	1,571 ft
GPS:	37.84695, -121.92666 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	20,326 total · 154/month
Shared By:	Aron Quiter on Jun 28, 2013 · Updates
Admins:	Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock Details

Castle Rock in Pine Canyon is closed for peregrine falcon nesting season, from February 1 through July 31st every year. All other Mount Diablo area crags are open to climbing. The news release is linked here parks.ca.gov/NewsRelease/493.

Description

The Middle Tier: Originally home to almost all top-rope climbs, there are now four sport lines in addition to two leadable cracks. Generally different in style than the Upper and Lower Tiers, routes here are as short as the huecos are large. (See, e.g., Secnar (.12-).)

The top of the Middle Tier can be accessed by a short scramble that begins on the south south side of the tier (climber's right of the routes). The anchors generally comprise two glue-in bolts but no hardware. Please use long slings/webbing/cord (5' at least) in order to extend your top-rope! Help preserve the rock and prevent degradation by not climbing here if you cannot extend your top-rope anchor well beyond the edge. Also, do not climb here for three days after it rains - holds will break.

Getting There

Refer to general overview for Boy Scout Rocks.

9 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

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Classic Climbing Routes at Middle Tier

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 15 ● Jungle Book Trad, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 26 ● Pot Leaf Cave - Left Arete Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 17 ● Two in One Sport, TR
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 15 ● In the Buckets Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 5 ● Secnar Sport