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Middle Tier
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beach Crack T,TR 
In the Buckets TR 
Jungle Book T,TR 
Pot Leaf Cave - Left Arete TR 
Two for One (left variation) S,TR 
Two for One (right variation) S,TR 
Two in One S 

Beach Crack 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,690
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Jun 24, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock MORE INFO >>>


Climb on the portion of the middle tier that you first encounter hiking down to lower tier from the road.

Fun layback in the bottom section, good fist jams on the top section.


Gear to 4 inches.

Mostly just a TR - you can access the anchors by scrambling up and around the gully. The actual bolts are on an upper hump with in cut steps at the far south side of the middle tier formation.

To set a top anchor, bring slings up to 10 feet.

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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Sep 22, 2003
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

OK climb- but hard at it's grade. It's also a pain in the butt for only 35' of rock in my opinion. TR off of the small tree and off of some GREAT stoppers in the grooves to the left that were 'cut' by other ropes + a cam of two ~.4-.6" inches there. Lead with 1 set of cams from 1" to 4".

Not bad, but not good. I guess if the sun is right with respect to it, or the rest of the routes are taken, it's worthy, but not a destination or a "tick list" climb.

Sure was a lot of work for "5.6"... I'd say it was awkward and physically demanding. the holds are slopey and sandy. I'll go as far as to call it 5.8.
By Ami Bhatt
Dec 5, 2004
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This is one of the sandiest and most fragile routes I've been on at Diablo. My guess is that the 5.6 rating was given before significant erosion took place. It felt more like a strengthy 5.8 (especially for those who lack long legs allowing stemming across the bottom cave).

I found the best thing about the route to be the mind trip aspect of holds falling apart beneath your shoes.
By Steve R.
From: Oakland, CA
Dec 5, 2008

And there's a perfect placement for my #11 hex ;-)
By Salamanizer suchoski
From: Vacaville Ca.
Feb 4, 2013

This route is called the "Beach Crack".

Get it? Cuz of all the sand!

It's solid 5.7.
By Justin Johnsen
From: Nor Cal
Jun 27, 2014

I've combined Andrew Gillies' contribution into Aron's old page, and updated the route name.

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