The obvious route while approaching the Lower Saddle. Climb the left side of the upper tongue, avoiding the huge crevasse that opens up mid to late season. At the col between Dike Pinnacle and the main summit, the snow/ice usually ends, turn right and rock climb to the top.
This route will vary from year to year and times of the year.
Descend the Southwest Couloir - thereby making a complete traverse of the Middle Teton.
Depends on the time of year. Not much. You can make the rock climbing as easy or hard as you want.
Steep snow on the upper section of the Middle Teto...
Steepness of the Couloir above the Middle Teton gl...
Couloir above the Middle Teton Glacier to the Blac...
Middle Teton Glacier, July 15, 2016
Middle from just above south fork.
BETA PHOTO: Base of the glacier to the top of the couloir.
Taken from the south summit looking down on dike c...
BETA PHOTO: Rappel at south summit, two old pins & a tri-cam. ...
John Evans at the top of the glacier, heading for ...
Me at the top of the couloir.
BETA PHOTO: Our route from the dike col to south summit.
A different year with more ice and bigger crevasse...
The Middle Teton Glacier route follows directly up...
By John Evans
Jun 24, 2014
Climbed this route on June 21, 2014 with my wife, Michele. We had good snow almost the whole way, only getting sugary in spots on the last 100 feet or so. We put a rope on for the last 50 feet of snow, as little sluffs were starting to spontaneously release here and there, and it was steep! Moving right to the snow patch under the North summit was not looking like a safe option with little snow connecting over, so we moved left and climbed to the South summit. After chilling for an hour or so, we rapped off the north side to the notch (look for it, the anchor is not real obvious, and we belayed ourselves to it), and roped up for a short pitch of wet rock on the southeast corner of the North summit. More chilling ensued, as the views of the Grand and everything were awesome and plentiful. Descent was straightforward down the Southwest Couloir. We camped at the Meadows for two nights, and the whole thing took about 11 hours, including about 1.5 hours hanging out on top. Left camp at 4:30am, which was a bit later than we planned on, but it all worked out.
By Michele Evans
Jun 24, 2014
This was the steepest snow I have climbed so far. I felt slightly anxious about the route after reading some horror stories online. I was delighted when the conditions were about perfect other than we could have been at the summit block a titch earlier to avoid the constant sloughing from the steep summit slopes & hearing boulders pitch down Teepee gully, which was a bit nerve racking. It was fun being the only ones to summit the Middle the first day of summer 2014! I made a slideshow with a few more pics from our trip: John & Michele Middle Teton Glacier 6/21/2014
By Brett Verhoef
From: Northern Utah
Jul 22, 2016
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c AI2
Conditions of the glacier and upper section above the Black Dike Col will vary depending on the time of year. It seems like in June it is a snow climb and ski objective. In July it becomes firm snow and rock/mixed. August/September it becomes ice and rock/mixed. Be prepared with the proper pro and you'll be good!