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Middle Small Wall

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Middle Small Wall Rock Climbing 

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Location: 37.8236, -83.58889 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 3,798
Administrators: Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike, saxfiend, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Tony B on Nov 27, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Mysterious, faded, vegetation covered approach tra...


Middle Small Wall is really the same formation as Lower Small Wall, but has been treated as a separate crag for several reasons. First off, the distance between the clusters of climbing on the two is greater between than to the road, a mere 10 minute approach, making two different approaches and parking areas more sensible. Additionally, the Middle Wall faces East and gets afternoon shade, whereas Lower Small Wall gets sun all day. The sun factor also seems to affect the rock, with more lichen and moss on some parts of the Middle Small Wall (and a few of the climbs) and fewer major features, creating a smoother cracked wall less given to face climbing. What they thankfully both have in common is stars galore- excellent routes, some of which are quite long. Frankly, I never understood why these were referred to as "Small" walls.
Some excellent climbs are here: The Quest, Handjob, Basecamp, Marmalade, and others. Some are multi-pitch.

Getting There 

Drive 5.7 miles on Hwy715 past the intersection of Hwy 77. You pass the Gladie Creek Visitors center and Tower Rock. A pull-out on the right side of the road appears after a strong left hand curve and just before bending back right. A trail across the road from this pull-out leads uphill to the base of the cliff, arriving at a point between the large roof of Basecamp to the left, and the striking roof-capped dihedral of "The Quest" to the right.

Climbing Season

Weather station 5.3 miles from here

7 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Middle Small Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Middle Small Wall:
Layback Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 60'   
Handjob   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Marmalde   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 60'   
The Quest   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Middle Small Wall

Featured Route For Middle Small Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Marmalade

Marmalde 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a  Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Middle Small Wall
This route follows a striking wide splitter on the wall just to the right of a very prominent right facing corner. Start on a block just off the trail, climb up a dirty crack for 10 feet until you are on a ledge below this beauty. I thought the crux was getting off this ledge and into the crack. From the ledge, place pro and fire out the overhang via ever-widening jams. Once your feet are under you, cruise to the top on arm bars and stacks. Build a gear anchor at the top. Descent-Traverse over t...[more]   Browse More Classics in Kentucky

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