Middle Small Wall Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Mysterious, faded, vegetation covered approach tra...
Middle Small Wall is really the same formation as Lower Small Wall, but has been treated as a separate crag for several reasons. First off, the distance between the clusters of climbing on the two is greater between than to the road, a mere 10 minute approach, making two different approaches and parking areas more sensible. Additionally, the Middle Wall faces East and gets afternoon shade, whereas Lower Small Wall gets sun all day. The sun factor also seems to affect the rock, with more lichen and moss on some parts of the Middle Small Wall (and a few of the climbs) and fewer major features, creating a smoother cracked wall less given to face climbing. What they thankfully both have in common is stars galore- excellent routes, some of which are quite long. Frankly, I never understood why these were referred to as "Small" walls.
Some excellent climbs are here: The Quest, Handjob, Basecamp, Marmalade, and others. Some are multi-pitch.
Drive 5.7 miles on Hwy715 past the intersection of Hwy 77. You pass the Gladie Creek Visitors center and Tower Rock. A pull-out on the right side of the road appears after a strong left hand curve and just before bending back right. A trail across the road from this pull-out leads uphill to the base of the cliff, arriving at a point between the large roof of Basecamp to the left, and the striking roof-capped dihedral of "The Quest" to the right.
Climbing Season For the Red River Gorge area.
Weather station 5.3 miles from here
7 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Middle Small Wall
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Middle Small Wall:
Handjob 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Marmalde 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, 60'
The Quest 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
PG13 Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Featured Route For Middle Small Wall
Handjob 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Kentucky
: Red River Gorge
: Middle Small Wall
A great climb on great jams with solid rock and pro most of the way. A good warm up for some of the harder lines in the area.Climb the obvious hand and fist crack, passing a roof at mid height (crux) and continue to a big ledge and belay. To descend, rap from a set of bolted anchors which have replaced the fixed slings up top....[more] Browse More Classics in Kentucky