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Middle Roof Variation 

Hueco: V5 Font: 6C

   
Type:  Boulder, 15'
Original:  Hueco: V5 Font: 6C [details]
FA: ???
Page Views: 391
Submitted By: Will Cornell on Sep 26, 2014

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Where the traverse starts. Move out left instead o...

Description 

Start on the Middle Roof V1+ jugs and climb out of the roof and up to the lip. Hit that rough sandpaper jug, but instead of manteling and topping out there make a big out left to the crimpy ledge. Throw a heel hook -- or don't (I didn't), match up and get your feet situated on some thin, hard to see edges that should be right under your hips. Continue out left, following the ledge, pulling hard on the crimps. At this point the Problem meets up with the V6-7 crimp line, and follows it up through a somewhat hairy topout.

Protection 

One pad will be fine if you have a good spotter who can move it along, two would be preferable.


Photos of Middle Roof Variation Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The topout
BETA PHOTO: The topout
Rock Climbing Photo: Crunchy crux moves
BETA PHOTO: Crunchy crux moves

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