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Middle Rock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Albuquerque Route T,S,TR 
Bats in the Belfry T 
Bells in the Belfry S 
Cowboy Bob's Chickenhead Delight T 
Mary Poppins in the Belfry S 
Unknown T 
Unknown (East of ABQ) S 

Middle Rock Rock Climbing 

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Administrators: Mike Howard, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Chris Wenker on Jun 30, 2008
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Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. MORE INFO >>>


Middle Rock is the long, east-to-west oriented dome that lies just to the north of the Mosaic Rock. Most, or maybe all, of the established routes ascend the southern face of the dome, which Jackson describes as being "characterized by sweeping slabs capped by diagonaling crack systems and steeper headwalls and overhangs."

Several moderate to hard trad routes ascend the left side of the south face, some moderate bolted lines are near the center, and a moderate trad route and three hard bolted lines lie farther to the right side.

Getting There 

Most commonly approached by circling around the western end of the Mosaic Rock and passing through the gap between Mosaic and West Rock #1 to reach the left end of the south face of Middle Rock. An easy walk on well-defined user trails.

Climbing Season

For the Tres Piedras area.

Weather station 1.1 miles from here

7 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Middle Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Middle Rock:
Cowboy Bob's Chickenhead Delight   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 160'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Middle Rock

Featured Route For Middle Rock
Rock Climbing Photo: The yellow dots show (most of) the route.

Cowboy Bob's Chickenhead Delight 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b  New Mexico : Taos Area : ... : Middle Rock
When looking up at the top of Middle Rock from the base of the south face one can't help but notice this steep, short face of awesome chicken heads. Cowboy Bob's Chicken Head Delight ascends straight up the face through some of the coolest chicken heads I've ever pulled down on. Unfortunately, the first half of the route is easy climbing before switching to the steep, featured climbing--you'll be wishing it was longer.Start at the base of the south face on the far left side below the lon...[more]   Browse More Classics in New Mexico

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By George Perkins
From: The Dungeon, NM
Nov 27, 2012
"Cowgirl Pump" (5.11a R). One guidebook shows it left of the "Bats in the Belfry" crack, the other shows it to the right. It's supposed to have a bolt on the steep part, which I looked for, but didn't see. Anyone climbed this and can point me in the right direction?

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