Middle Parallel Space
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The right side of Crimpfest Wall has several lines that are fairly close together. MPS starts under the right end of a low roof with a weird-looking flake. Belay off a good boulder close to the wall. The initial bulge (11c) is probably the crux of the route, and requires either a stick-clip or side-roping on the first bolt of the route to the left (which is much easier to hand-clip). Make difficult moves on thin holds to get established above the roof, carefully clip the second bolt, and attack the upper and still difficult (11a) roof. This entire section gets run-off and is often dirty. Now engage in far more moderate climbing to a funky flake that leads to the amazing upper headwall. A difficult sequence through a superb incut handhold leads to good holds at the headwall lip and the anchors.
Both cruxes are given 11c in Tod's 2004 guide. But be warned: both times I have done this route, my partners (both solid at 5.11) have floated the upper headwall but flailed and had to yard on the lower bolt.
12-14 draws only.
By Colin Simon
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 13, 2015
This is dangerous for a sport route.
A high first bolt off a ledge. Climb past three big, loose flakes - it's mandatory to pull on two of them. They are unlikely to rip, but you and your belayer will likely be killed if any of them rip.