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Middle Meanie Crack 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 25'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
Page Views: 746
Submitted By: Sarah Meiser on Apr 30, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Carey's second trad lead.

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A somewhat awkward, high step gets you established in the steep crack. If you know how to jam and have relatively large hands, you will probably find this climb trivial. If you suck at crack climbing and/or have smaller hands, you will probably find it challenging. The crack was too wide for me to find many good hand jams and sometimes also too wide for my fist.


The Meanie Cracks are a group of 3 obvious cracks at the base of the Tilted Tower. The Middle Meanie crack is obviously the one in the middle.

To descend, continue up Middle Dihedral (5.6) and rap from its top anchor on the Tilted Tower.


Hand sized cams. The crack mostly takes #2s, but #1s and #3s are also useful.

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By Joe Catellani
From: Seattle, wa
Sep 16, 2014
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Extra hand-size cams useful as bottom belay uses #2 & 3 Camalot.
By Taketaketaketaketake ....take
From: Colorado Springs
Jun 20, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Thought this was harder than 5.7. Tricky feet and not the easiest to protect without bigger stuff.

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