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Middle Class Wall
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Black Eye In Overtime S 
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Streaky Stylee S 
Twinkletoes S 

Middle Management 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Beavers, Walz
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 74
Submitted By: beavs on Jun 24, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Undercling/layback the small roof at the start and continue up the slab to chains on the left side of the middle ledge. Short and not super sustained at the grade but great rock and quality climbing. A bit runout getting to the chains but the climbing gets a lot easier as you get further away from the last bolt (there is a slabby crux right above the last bolt).


The left route of the 3 on the smiley face (see photo on Middle Class page).


5 bolts to chains.

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By Elijah Flenner
Jun 6, 2011

This route would be deserving of another star or two if there was one more bolt near the end. As it is, it is a little confusing why an otherwise well protected route would have such a runout where a broken or wet hold might result in a very nasty fall.
By jarthur
From: Westminster, CO
Jul 1, 2013

There's a bat living in the undercling to right-facing sidepull flake at the 3rd bolt. It was freaking out when I got to the right-facing flake and then flew out and landed on my pants. The hardest moves on the slab are when you are 3 to 5 feet above the last bolt. After that, it's pretty cruizer to the anchors. This felt like old school New River Gorge style slab climbing (hard!) to me above the 5th bolt. Maybe if I'd tried it with better temperatures it would have felt easier.
By Ken Duncan
From: Ft Collins, CO
Jul 3, 2015

From the anchors on MM, you can continue up and right on Streaky Stylee for a nice, long, 5.10c/d pitch. Be sure to keep diagonaling right, not straight up into the 5.12b crux of Overtime.

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