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Middle Man 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Lee Hanshe?
Page Views: 199
Submitted By: lee hansche on Apr 12, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: this shows the lines. Pink is middle Man and yello...


Okay, Hear me out and just tell me politely if this is silly. But the other day I was about to climb Sun Bowl and I noticed another way to use those bolts without climbing pretty much ANY of Sun Bowl. Sun Bowl stays well right of the bolts for the entire climb except for the very top. I climbed to the left of the bolts but they were well placed for this climb as well. It is absolutely an independent line which only shares the very last two holds.

Start up the short arete and up some crimps to a stance. Work through an interesting mantle move, clip the final bolt and move left past crimps aiming for the right facing triangle hold. A big move on thin feet gets you to the cutaway jug at the top of Sun Bowl. Finish on good holds to the anchor.

I wouldn't be at all surprised if other folks have already done it this way but then again who knows. The reason I noticed it was that I was thinking if I had discovered this cliff how would I have developed it and this line would have been my first choice.


Between Murk Trench and Sun Bowl using the Sun Bowl bolts.


3 bolts to anchors.

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By M Sprague
From: New England
Apr 12, 2016

aka Lee Gets Pulled Aside
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 12, 2016

Haha nice
By slacker
From: North Conway NH
Apr 14, 2016

It does seem a bit strange to call it 2 separate routes but it's rumney.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 14, 2016

I couldn't agree more. But marking it as a variation of the 5.8 seems weird cause it is such a very different line. I'm not attached to it but its there if anyone wants to change it up a bit.
By Eli Buzzell
From: Lives in a 4runner
Apr 21, 2016

AKA Only Lee Can Reach the Bolts
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 21, 2016

they were not a stretch at all :P

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