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Left Hand of Darkness - E. Face
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Middle Hand of Darkness 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Unknown, put probably some of the usual suspects in the late 70's
Page Views: 298
Submitted By: Russ Walling on Apr 14, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: A Blitzo Photo with the Middle line drawn in. Tha...


This route is most likely some sort of old mixed aid line or TR. There are hammer marks under the roof from pin whacking and I think I remember a pin or two protecting the low crux. It climbs pretty well with thought provoking moves until the above the roof crux slaps you in the face. Rock down low is not that great, but gets better as you go.


Between Left Hand of Darkness and the Right Hand of Darkness. Really all this route does is straighten out the Right Hand of Darkness. Not sure why that thing (RHD) is crawling all over the wall with this direct route available. Scramble down to climbers right to descend.


Thin stuff down low, if you can get any, and then sm-med cams for the easy top out. The anchor takes all sorts of not that great gear from 1/2" to 4". You will need a long extendo runner to set up a good TR.

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Rock Climbing Photo: East Face of Left Hand of Darkness
East Face of Left Hand of Darkness

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By Alex Bury
From: Ojai, CA
Nov 2, 2016
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Makes for a fun TR. Good technique down low will help save juice for the crux.

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