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Middle Fork

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Middle Fork Rock Climbing 

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Location: 39.5567, -111.6875 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 18,603
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Jul 5, 2009


68° | 44°

61° | 33°

45° | 31°

48° | 29°

47° | 28°
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Getting lowered down the west side of the pinnacle...


The routes in this area are those accessed by traveling on the footpath in Maple Canyon’s Middle Fork.

Getting There 

The Middle Fork trail starts at the rightward bend in the road near a large information sign with photographs (not the pay area sign) and near parking for several vehicles and heads west (the same direction as the road before the bend) past two campsites on the right.

Climbing Season

Weather station 5.8 miles from here

28 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Middle Fork

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Middle Fork:
The Great Chasm   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 3 pitches, 300'   The Great Chasm
Slamfire   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 4 pitches, 300'   Armory, The
Warm & Soapy Lather   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 50'   Lou's Tavern
Sound the Klaxon   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   The Matrix
Lock n' Load   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 5 pitches, 365'   Armory, The
Twelve Tasty Donuts   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   The Matrix
Amenema   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a     Sport   The Matrix
Amplification   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   The Hot Zone
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Middle Fork

Featured Route For Middle Fork
Rock Climbing Photo: Jon in the good light on an amazing climb.

American Dream 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b  Utah : Maple Canyon : ... : The Matrix
This route is phenomenal, a must do for sure! Climb gently overhanging rock for about 45' and try and conserve your energy. The crux comes a little past halfway where the angle kicks back a few more degrees and the holds get smaller. If your super pumped after the crux then watch out or the next few moves might get you. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Photos of Middle Fork Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: George Bracksieck standing on the higher (west) en...
George Bracksieck standing on the higher (west) en...
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading up to the notch on the east side of the pi...
Leading up to the notch on the east side of the pi...

Comments on Middle Fork Add Comment
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By George Bracksieck
Oct 5, 2012
On Aug 29, 2011, my wife and I were searching for the Great Chasm route and failed to find it. We decided to check out the Natural Arch, farther up the Middle Fork trail. I wondered if anyone had been atop the arch.

We plodded up the steep draw to the south, passing beneath the arch. From the uphill side of the arch, the best possibility lay up the chossy rock on the southeast side of the arch. I led diagonally up left, across loose, dirty cobbles to the notch on the east side of a pinnacle. The only pro was a #1 Tricam placed in a cleavage between cobbles at the start of the steep section below the notch.

I moved through the notch, then up to the summit of the pinnacle that looks down onto the arch from the east. Using the notch and pinnacle as my running belay, my wife lowered me down the west side of the pinnacle onto the arch, and I walked across it. There was no cairn or any other evidence of human passage. I left no trace, either. Refer to the attached photos.

I reversed the route, climbing almost to the top of the pinnacle and was then lowered toward the belayer, with the rope running around the pinnacle. The cobbles smoothed the rope's passage -- as long as they didn't break. Some did. I rate the climbing difficulty at 5.5X.

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