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Middle Fork

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Armory, The 
Grease & Grime Wall 
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Middle Fork Rock Climbing 

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Location: 39.5567, -111.6875 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Jul 5, 2009
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Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Getting lowered down the west side of the pinnacle...


The routes in this area are those accessed by traveling on the footpath in Maple Canyon’s Middle Fork.

Getting There 

The Middle Fork trail starts at the rightward bend in the road near a large information sign with photographs (not the pay area sign) and near parking for several vehicles and heads west (the same direction as the road before the bend) past two campsites on the right.

Climbing Season

Weather station 5.8 miles from here

28 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Middle Fork

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Middle Fork:
The Great Chasm   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 3 pitches, 300'   The Great Chasm
Slamfire   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 4 pitches, 300'   Armory, The
Warm & Soapy Lather   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 50'   Lou's Tavern
Sound the Klaxon   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   The Matrix
Twelve Tasty Donuts   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   The Matrix
Amenema   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport   The Matrix
Amplification   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   The Hot Zone
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Middle Fork

Featured Route For Middle Fork
Rock Climbing Photo: Bottom of Amplification.  Follows the small seam.

Amplification 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c  Utah : Maple Canyon : ... : The Hot Zone
A pure endurance climb with no real cruxes, Amplification follows a small seam to the top of the wall.A fun boulder problem gets things going. Then pull into a large corner and weave left and right between decent holds until you are forced to leave the corner. Follow a crack making slightly harder moves for another 30 feet until you get a rest below the steep final headwall. Luckily, the holds improve, so just manage your pump to the top.This is probably the best 5.13 journey route at Maple. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Photos of Middle Fork Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: George Bracksieck standing on the higher (west) en...
George Bracksieck standing on the higher (west) en...
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading up to the notch on the east side of the pi...
Leading up to the notch on the east side of the pi...

Comments on Middle Fork Add Comment
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By George Bracksieck
Oct 5, 2012
On Aug 29, 2011, my wife and I were searching for the Great Chasm route and failed to find it. We decided to check out the Natural Arch, farther up the Middle Fork trail. I wondered if anyone had been atop the arch.

We plodded up the steep draw to the south, passing beneath the arch. From the uphill side of the arch, the best possibility lay up the chossy rock on the southeast side of the arch. I led diagonally up left, across loose, dirty cobbles to the notch on the east side of a pinnacle. The only pro was a #1 Tricam placed in a cleavage between cobbles at the start of the steep section below the notch.

I moved through the notch, then up to the summit of the pinnacle that looks down onto the arch from the east. Using the notch and pinnacle as my running belay, my wife lowered me down the west side of the pinnacle onto the arch, and I walked across it. There was no cairn or any other evidence of human passage. I left no trace, either. Refer to the attached photos.

I reversed the route, climbing almost to the top of the pinnacle and was then lowered toward the belayer, with the rope running around the pinnacle. The cobbles smoothed the rope's passage -- as long as they didn't break. Some did. I rate the climbing difficulty at 5.5X.

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