Friends over things, outside over inside. Will you go out with us? #OptOutside — Join Us Outside
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
The Palace
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Middle Earth T 
Swat Team T 

Middle Earth 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: R. Fields
Page Views: 184
Submitted By: Ross on Apr 20, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]


From a ledge, go up easy, broken blocks until below a corner and crack system and a small roof. Below the roof, the crack is incipient, so you must start on the arete on the left side, then traverse back right to the crack. Continue up the crack to a 2 bolt anchor.

## Caution, there is a 1'x 1' block on ledge below anchors that is loose but LOOKs totally solid ##.

For pitch 2, go up to roof on left, then traverse out right through cracks in an airy traverse. After about ~25', you will be able to go up a dihedral* with some cracks in it for gear, 10b. At easier ground, find the 2 bolt anchor 20' up.

  • Or continue the traverse for another 15' into the head wall and find the tight crack in the dihedral above your head. Put good gear in this crack and launch up with good heel or toe hook on the left to gain the ledge, 10d or 11a.

  • One can also pass the tight crack above and enter wide crack 5' further to the right that goes straight up, we did not climb this one as the wide gear was used up.


This route goes up a good crack system in large, right-facing corner that splits the face.


Standard rack.

Comments on Middle Earth Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!