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Middle Earth 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: R. Fields
Page Views: 210
Submitted By: Ross Swanson on Apr 20, 2014

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From a ledge, go up easy, broken blocks until below a corner and crack system and a small roof. Below the roof, the crack is incipient, so you must start on the arete on the left side, then traverse back right to the crack. Continue up the crack to a 2 bolt anchor.

## Caution, there is a 1'x 1' block on ledge below anchors that is loose but LOOKs totally solid ##.

For pitch 2, go up to roof on left, then traverse out right through cracks in an airy traverse. After about ~25', you will be able to go up a dihedral* with some cracks in it for gear, 10b. At easier ground, find the 2 bolt anchor 20' up.

  • Or continue the traverse for another 15' into the head wall and find the tight crack in the dihedral above your head. Put good gear in this crack and launch up with good heel or toe hook on the left to gain the ledge, 10d or 11a.

  • One can also pass the tight crack above and enter wide crack 5' further to the right that goes straight up, we did not climb this one as the wide gear was used up.


This route goes up a good crack system in large, right-facing corner that splits the face.


Standard rack.

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