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Unsorted Routes:

Middle Earth 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 170'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 2,480
Submitted By: Benjamin Chapman on Jul 10, 2011  with updates from mrjazzitup

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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A recently replaced bolt and hanger from "Mid...


"Middle Earth" begins downhill (left) of "Agua Negro" near the large bush/tree the corridor. Start climbing just right of and below a huge coarse grained block or inclusion. Two bolts lead past the inclusion to a lower angled apron. The 2nd bolt is awkward to clip. Continue up as the wall steepens to a headwall below a large depression, clip the bolt, and climb into the depression. Move left from the depression around the left side of a very large block to a chain anchor with two bolts. Continue up the steep upper headwall on pockets and knobs past 5 more bolts. While it is possible to link the climb as one long pitch it maybe necessary to use long runners down low or back clean to reduce rope drag. As of July 2014 there are chains with screw links in order to rappel the route in two rappels with a 60 meter rope.


This route is on the east wall of the corridor and originates near the large bush, below a huge light colored cobble, 40 feet left (north) of "Aqua Negro."


P1 - 9 bolts & 2-bolt anchor with chain, P2 - 5 bolts, shares an anchor with "Tethys," 3 bolts with chains.

Photos of Middle Earth Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: P2 anchor shared with Tethys.
P2 anchor shared with Tethys.
Rock Climbing Photo: P1 anchor. The route is much nicer when done as on...
P1 anchor. The route is much nicer when done as on...
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber in black, on "Middle Earth." the...
Climber in black, on "Middle Earth." the...
Rock Climbing Photo: Upon reflection, I think this is probably Pocket C...
Upon reflection, I think this is probably Pocket C...
Rock Climbing Photo: A climber rappelling down the line of "Middle...
A climber rappelling down the line of "Middle...
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber on the steep upper headwall of "Middl...
Climber on the steep upper headwall of "Middl...

Comments on Middle Earth Add Comment
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By steple
Jul 26, 2011

This route is listed as trad, but according to the description it's a sport climb.
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Sep 9, 2011

The bolts are more widely spaced than most "sport" routes and might be considered run out. "Picante" (5.12) at Suicide Rock is listed as "trad" by Darrell Hensel, yet it is a sporty face, protected by 5 bolts. In fact, most of the face routes at Suicide Rock and Joshua Tree are classified as trad. If you're expecting closely spaced bolts at Texas Canyon you may be in over your head. All you need is draws. The bolts on P1 have been upgraded. 17 old drilled holes (old bolts?) were filled and patched.
By Guy Keesee
From: Moorpark, CA
Nov 25, 2011

""While this route is fairly new, no information is available regarding the details of the FA or its original name.

So Gentle Ben, How nice of you to rate it and name it for all of US. Thank You for your service.
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Nov 28, 2011

Always eager to help. Certainly, attaching a name and a rating to the route helps others identify it and might save someone from an unfortunate accident or epic. Withholding the name and rating benefits few and may put inexperienced climbers in jeopardy. As Spider Savage has indicated throughout this site, if you have some insight regarding the name, rating, FA party, date, etc. that you or anyone else would like to share...please do.
By NancyM
From: Acton, California
Jun 22, 2013

Thanks for the beta, Ben. I had wanted to lead this one, but after reading the info here I'm going to toprope a few more times to get familiar with the bolt placment. As a Lord of the Rings fan, I don't mind that you named it Middle Earth :) Until I learn to drill and folt my own routes, I'm happy to have the names and beta on the existing ones!
By BAd
Dec 7, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This is a fun, full pitch and not too hard. Whenever things get a little sketchy, try a little move to the left. Persist and you'll get to a good stance. Fun!

Looks like I did Pocket Change. Doh! Middle Earth is to the left. I've yet to do it.
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Apr 14, 2014 got it right, "Middle Earth" on the left and "Pick Pocket" on the right.
You're right on regarding the beta as well. When in doubt, especially at each of the large inclusions or blocks, go left.
By BAd
Jan 25, 2017
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Thanks, Ben. Have since done ME a couple of times. All these long routes in the Canyon are great. ME is a little harder than Pick Pocket. 5.9 fer sure.

By jt512
May 16, 2017

Whether this is a sport or trad route is in dispute. A route that is protected entirely by bolts may be a trad route if the bolts were placed on lead. Does anyone have any idea whether the original bolts (I understand some were replaced) were placed on lead or on rappel? If so, please comment here or shoot me an email. Thanks.

Edit: Have reclassified as sport, based on info that the original bolts were likely placed on rappel.
By ClimbingNewb
From: Canyon Country
May 30, 2017

FYI, Left Hanger on P1 is a spinner.

Fun climb.

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