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Middle Earth

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Black Tongue S 

Middle Earth Rock Climbing 

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Administrators: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Michael Schneiter on Mar 11, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: Middle Earth, East Canyon.


Middle Earth is the second area encountered and consists of mostly broken, ledgey rock faces with a couple of routes.

Getting There 

On the approach trail stay right after crossing the drainage. After hiking up a small scree slope, head left to the base of the wall.

Climbing Season

For the Glenwood Canyon area.

Weather station 0.8 miles from here

1 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For Middle Earth
Rock Climbing Photo: Black Tongue (5.10c) at Middle Earth, East Canyon.

Black Tongue 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  Colorado : Glenwood Springs : ... : Middle Earth
This interesting climb begins with some easy approach slabs to the steep, overhanging start beneath the "black tongue" of bat guano coming out of a large hole. Clip the first bolt and make fun movements on big huecos/pockets to the right of the "black tongue." The first crux comes at the fifth piece of protection (bolt, bolt, pin, bolt) as you must navigate a small, but steep overhang, trying to keep your hand off of the bat guano jug while trying to locate the good holds above and sort out the ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

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