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Middle Earth  

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jay Crew
Page Views: 149
Submitted By: Reed Ames on Nov 4, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Middle Earth


Steep with big holds. Look for the finger slot at bolt 3 for the left hand. This helps open the sequence past the crux. Passing bolt 3 is the crux for me, but other say the traverse left at bolt 4 or 5 is the mental crux. A few more pumpy and sustained moves at the top will get you to the rings.


30 feet up and right of the Owl slab is an alcove that has 2 routes. Middle Earth is the route on the right side wall.


7 bolts and 2 bolt anchor with chains.

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By dino74
Jan 16, 2017
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Great route! Looks harder than it is. I'd recommend the belayer wear a helmet because the belay area is small and while all the holds feel solid, you never know. For the first couple of bolts, don't go too far to the left. The rock is quality isn't good there. Stay with the bolts or right of them. Also, see if you can find the kneebar rest right before the traverse.!

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