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Magic Flute T 
Middle Dihedral T 

Middle Dihedral 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 552
Submitted By: Ken H on Mar 11, 2014

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Pitch 3 - where it gets loose


No idea what this route really is but we went up to Merlin Dome to have a look around and chose to climb a Dihedral we found.

We did the route as 3 pitchs which were probably around 100-150 ft long each.
Pitch 1 - 5.7 to a tree belay
Pitch 2 - 5.7 to a nice ledge
Pitch 3 - 5.7 PG to a ledge at the base of a slab

Descent: Down climbed a 3rd class rap to climbers right. Then down climb or down led if needed a 4th class gully to gain the base of the dome and walked back to our gear.


I would locate this some where on the right side of Merlin Dome. Probably right of Magic Flute (though I have no idea where that actually is).


Standard Trad Rack will do. Pitch 3 has some loose rock and is wandery; we had double ropes.

Photos of Middle Dihedral Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 3
Pitch 3
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at the Dihedral
Looking up at the Dihedral
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 2
Pitch 2
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1
Pitch 1

Comments on Middle Dihedral Add Comment
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By kfox Fox
May 5, 2014

I think this route is not actually on Merlin Dome but on a feature to the left. As you are coming up the road from the south this is on the first rock found directly above the road on the left. Merlin Dome proper is another few hundred yards north.
By Matt N
From: Santa Barbara, CA
May 5, 2014

Looks like Merlin to me. Topped out Magic Flute and walking back to the base, we passed a few dihedrals/pillar systems. Merlin Dome was way wider than we thought.

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