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Unsorted Routes:

Middle Deception Crack 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Flagstaff Old School
Season: Spring, summer, fall
Page Views: 1,102
Submitted By: Will Cobb on Apr 25, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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BETA PHOTO: Middle Deception crack is on the right


This route is the first crack system left of the Right Deception. Climb an easy slab to the crux. Face climbing, body English, and levitation get you to a small pod. From this point it is mostly hands and fingers to the top.

The crux is awkward and difficult to protect. Most folks TR this route.

Descent - Rappel from two bolts atop the Right Deception Crack or scramble down to the right of PMC.


1-3.5" Cams
Medium - Large Stoppers
Slings and Draws

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By Will Cobb
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 31, 2007

For the crux I used the following -

A #2 camalot down low in a slot just to keep me from falling all the way back to the parking lot if I blew the crux gear. An Orange (#3) Metolius TCU and a Gold DMM (1.5 WC Friend Size) cam. Then, have a #2 or #1 camalot ready. Once you stand up in the pod it is possible to place a good cam and once again become safe from taking a fall onto the approach slab.
By JJ Schlick
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 3, 2015

A pretty serious lead for the grade as the crux is the PG13 section, and as Will made mention, it is an enigmatic set of moves into the pod. You can tease in a #3 Camalot in an a obvious bottleneck pod before you get set up for placing the crux gear. A fall moving into the pod would not be fun, even if the gear held. The rest of the route is really enjoyable.
By Jade Suster
Jul 10, 2016

I just moved to flagstaff, and still fairly new to climbing. But I live close to elden, how do I access this route?

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