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Willow River State Park
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Middle Cyclone 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Chris Hirsch
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 911
Submitted By: Chris Hirsch on Apr 9, 2009

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This is the latest link-up route with a new two bolt section between 'Genesis Effect' and 'Tsunami'. Climb 'Genesis' through the huge huck move then make a slightly awkward transition to the left. Pull the roof for a tricky move to join and finish 'Tsunami'. Another amazing link-up route!


Starts to the right of 'Natural Selection', finish on Tsunami.


Bolts. Please do not toprope off of the fixed gear at the top, use your own draws for that. If the biners on the chains look worn or do not work properly, please replace them. It's good karma.

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By AntVicino
Sep 21, 2010

This is one of the most direct lines at Willow. Really fun, engaging crux sequence to link into Tsunami. Hard to read, but not so bad once you figure out what you are doing.
By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Oct 10, 2010

i agree with anthony. like many routes at willow, middle cyclone feels much, much harder on the first go than on the second or third. once you have the beta, just go for it! you'll probably surprise yourself with a send.

also, take a couple longer draws for up top: one for the crux bolt, one for the next bolt, which is actually a bolt on tsunami. using long draws on these two bolts minimizes rope drag.
By Joe O'Shea
Nov 4, 2010

nicros fivten did this in a headlamp last night
By AntVicino
Nov 5, 2010

So glad to see Nic has come around on this line. Bout time, I say! This line is so good.
By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Nov 6, 2010

joe, please don't prop up nic's ego. he's got that more than covered himself. :)

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