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Middle Climb 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
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Page Views: 1,090
Submitted By: Dominic Albanese on Jul 26, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Movin' and groovin' on up.

Description 

Climbs the main, wide-ish crack/layback in the middle of the face. Hence the name. Steepens a bit at the top.

A popular intro to the area, and a good one to get used to the slightly strange rock at Ilchester.

Start is the crux no matter how you start.

Location 

Many starts for this ranging from using the tree to go straight up, to variations right and left. Watch swing if starting to the side.

Protection 

As long as someone spots you off the ground, this quickly becomes G rated gear. TR anchor on top.

Can seep a bit after the rain.


Photos of Middle Climb Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The main wall at Ilchester, the center of the Pata...
BETA PHOTO: The main wall at Ilchester, the center of the Pata...
Rock Climbing Photo: I hope this is the correct route, just right if Bl...
I hope this is the correct route, just right if Bl...

Comments on Middle Climb Add Comment
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By Joe Lucas
From: Hanover, MD
Jun 15, 2017
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Built anchor off pillar and rebar. Tough start, but otherwise easy/fun. Very short. Can get crowded (especially with nonclimbers). Short approach from parking area.

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