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Middle Class Wall
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Middle Class Cracker 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: B. Beavers
Page Views: 44
Submitted By: Kevin Landolt on May 31, 2010

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Description 

Middle Class Cracker is a fun little chosseneering adventure up the middle of the Middle Class Wall. Start on the grey streak right of the "smiley face" and climb up a short corner, move up and left over ledges, bushes, and loose blocks towards the obvious, right-leaning crack system higher up. A couple of fun moves gain the corner, and good climbing finishes the route off - rap anchors to the right. Avoid the higher set of bolts (and the loose, block filled chimney). Despite a lot of lichen, bushes, and bird shit, I really enjoyed this climb. It reminded me of photos I've seen of the classic rock climbs on Mt. Yamnuska in Alberta - for whatever that's worth.... Anyway, given the excellent sport climbing on the Triple Tier, it's worth packing a light rack along with your draws, as this route makes a fine warm up or cool down.

Location 

Middle Class Wall. Begin in the grey corner right of the "smiley face".

Protection 

Single set of cams and stoppers. 4-5 runners useful.


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By Aaron Martinuzzi
May 31, 2010
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Followed Kevin on this route today, and I would say that I'd probably want to shoot myself if I led this climb without at least four or five extendo-draws. The upper leaning corner is super fun (a bit reminiscent of lieback pitch on Perversion...just a bit...), as is the crux off the deck, but the middle portion of the route is pretty ambiguous, bushy, and quite frankly forgettable. A worthwhile climb, and deserving of more than one star, but, I think, not quite two. A light rack will do just fine, from Blue Metolius through #2 Camalot along with a handful of nuts; no RPs or anything crazy would be necessary.

Also, for what it's worth, I felt that there were a couple cruxes on this line - pulling through the roof to the slab (10a) early in the pitch, as indicated by the NoCo climbing guidebook, and busting the lieback roof (10b-ish, or insecure 10a) in the middle of the pitch before the fun leaning corner. Kevin's grade assessment is pretty spot-on.