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Middle Bell Tower

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arm and Hammer T 
Butcher Knife T 
Cymbals Of The Sun T 
Dire Direct T,S 
Ellsworth-McQuarrie Route T 
Gin and Tonic T 
Lowe Variation T 
Regge Pole T 
Winged Warrior T 

Middle Bell Tower Rock Climbing 

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Location: 40.56302, -111.76855 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 20,005
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Peter Gram on May 15, 2004


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54° | 38°

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Middle Bell Tower in winter conditions. Taken fro...

Private Property now at the entrance to Bells Canyon. MORE INFO >>>


The Middle Bell Tower can easily be picked out by a big right facing corner which pulls through two huge roofs (the Ellsworth-McQuarrie route). To the left of this is a shield of high quality granite which holds Arm and Hammer, a Bell Tower classic. The Middle Bell Tower is the 3rd Bell tower encountered, after the Far West and the West Bell.

Getting There 

Start at the trailhead for Bell's Canyon off of Wasatch Blvd. Follow this uphill, steeply at times, for 2 or 3 miles until adjacent with the Middle Bell Tower. This takes approximately 75 to 90 minutes to reach, depending on how fast you hike. Look for a faint trail (a ways above the turnoff for the waterfall) which heads easily over to the base of Middle Bell Tower. This faint trail avoids any bushwhacking, but has a lot of scrambling over giant boulders to cross the creek. From the trail, it is about 10 minutes to the base of the rock. Total approach time ~ one hour and 30-45 minutes.

Climbing Season

Weather station 3.8 miles from here

9 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Middle Bell Tower

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Middle Bell Tower:
Ellsworth-McQuarrie Route   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 6 pitches, 600'   
Lowe Variation   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 180'   
Winged Warrior   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1     Trad, Aid, 8 pitches, 900'   
Butcher Knife   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
Arm and Hammer   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 6 pitches, 600'   
Cymbals Of The Sun   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 6 pitches, 600'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Middle Bell Tower

Featured Route For Middle Bell Tower
Rock Climbing Photo: Closing in on the first belay with the giant edges

Cymbals Of The Sun 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a  Utah : Wasatch Range : ... : Middle Bell Tower
This audacious Bell's Canyon classic is a must do for those who love slab. Pat Maloney and I did it years ago and had to marvel at almost every bolt and position while climbing (getting ourselves up!) this amazing route that Ellison and Smoot created. It is stout and brilliant, yet rarely discussed compared to Arm And Hammer or other MidBells routes. As it is significantly harder than its neighboring Middle Bell routes and lacks the tension traverses, perhaps it has been ignored.The Ruckman Guid...[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Photos of Middle Bell Tower Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Middle Bell with 3 Parties on Arm and Hammer
Middle Bell with 3 Parties on Arm and Hammer
Rock Climbing Photo: Jon and Brent on top of Middle Bell Tower
Jon and Brent on top of Middle Bell Tower
Rock Climbing Photo: Middle Bell Tower.  Taken from main trail junction...
BETA PHOTO: Middle Bell Tower. Taken from main trail junction...

Comments on Middle Bell Tower Add Comment
Show which comments
By bheller
From: SL UT
May 11, 2016
Middle Bell Tower can indeed be rapped with a 70m rope. We did not go to the true summit of the ridge/formation, but found a stubby mahogany tree in a small notch above crazy choss runnels to the west that seemed to be the logical finish of Arm and Hammer and Butcher Knife. This small mahogany could use a knife and much long fresh cord to improve its function and clean it up (as of 5/10/16) (the ample hardware/quicklinks can be re-used).

Here's the single 70 m rope rappel beta beginning at the this top mahogeny:

1: rap to Butcher Knife's shiny new ASCA bolts and rings in a ramp/corner above the big roofs

2: rap down and right again into Butcher Knifes shiny new ASCA bolts and rings in the left facing ramp corner

3: rap down and left to the pedestal ledge bolted anchor

4: rap down right just barely making it to the now bolted 1st pitch "Chockstone Belay" for Cymbals

5: rap to the starting gully and down scramble a bit
By Garrett Harmsen
From: Park City, UT
Oct 11, 2016
would highly recommend the rappel over the walk off unless you enjoy incredibly heinous bushwhacking down a steep and loose slope. The "walk off" also includes 2 manky rappels, so it doesn't avoid getting the rope out either. It's only redeeming quality is that you get to walk the ridge in between Bells and Lcc. Unless you're a masochist, just rap the wall.

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