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Middle Bell Tower

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arm and Hammer T 
Butcher Knife T 
Cymbals Of The Sun T 
Dire Direct T,S 
Ellsworth-McQuarrie Route T 
Gin and Tonic T 
Lowe Variation T 
Regge Pole T 
Winged Warrior T 

Middle Bell Tower Rock Climbing 

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Location: 40.56302, -111.76855 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 16,823
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Peter Gram on May 15, 2004
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Middle Bell Tower in winter conditions. Taken fro...

Private Property now at the entrance to Bells Canyon. MORE INFO >>>


The Middle Bell Tower can easily be picked out by a big right facing corner which pulls through two huge roofs (the Ellsworth-McQuarrie route). To the left of this is a shield of high quality granite which holds Arm and Hammer, a Bell Tower classic. The Middle Bell Tower is the 3rd Bell tower encountered, after the Far West and the West Bell.

Getting There 

Start at the trailhead for Bell's Canyon off of Wasatch Blvd. Follow this uphill, steeply at times, for 2 or 3 miles until adjacent with the Middle Bell Tower. This takes approximately 75 to 90 minutes to reach, depending on how fast you hike. Look for a faint trail (a ways above the turnoff for the waterfall) which heads easily over to the base of Middle Bell Tower. This faint trail avoids any bushwhacking, but has a lot of scrambling over giant boulders to cross the creek. From the trail, it is about 10 minutes to the base of the rock. Total approach time ~ one hour and 30-45 minutes.

Climbing Season

Weather station 3.8 miles from here

9 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Middle Bell Tower

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Middle Bell Tower:
Ellsworth-McQuarrie Route   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 6 pitches, 600'   
Lowe Variation   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 180'   
Arm and Hammer   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Trad, 6 pitches, 600'   
Winged Warrior   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1     Trad, Aid, 8 pitches, 900'   
Butcher Knife   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
Cymbals Of The Sun   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 6 pitches, 600'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Middle Bell Tower

Featured Route For Middle Bell Tower
Rock Climbing Photo: The hand crack/flake after the slab traverse

Butcher Knife 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b  Utah : Wasatch Range : ... : Middle Bell Tower
P1 Climb same 5.7 start as A&HP2 Do the traverse to the crescent ledgeP3 Head right and down climb a bit to make upward progress passed two bolts. Then head right to a right facing corner and up to a third bolt. Make some dicey slab moves and up to the anchors.P4 Long pitch with a lot of rope drag so use slings. Traverse 30' left to a ledge where a crack splits the face and turns right under a roof. Follow the crack to a belay station and head for the wild roof split by a finger crack. Pull the ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Photos of Middle Bell Tower Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jon and Brent on top of Middle Bell Tower
Jon and Brent on top of Middle Bell Tower
Rock Climbing Photo: Middle Bell Tower.  Taken from main trail junction...
BETA PHOTO: Middle Bell Tower. Taken from main trail junction...

Comments on Middle Bell Tower Add Comment
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By bheller
From: SL UT
May 11, 2016
Middle Bell Tower can indeed be rapped with a 70m rope. We did not go to the true summit of the ridge/formation, but found a stubby mahogany tree in a small notch above crazy choss runnels to the west that seemed to be the logical finish of Arm and Hammer and Butcher Knife. This small mahogany could use a knife and much long fresh cord to improve its function and clean it up (as of 5/10/16) (the ample hardware/quicklinks can be re-used).

Here's the single 70 m rope rappel beta beginning at the this top mahogeny:

1: rap to Butcher Knife's shiny new ASCA bolts and rings in a ramp/corner above the big roofs

2: rap down and right again into Butcher Knifes shiny new ASCA bolts and rings in the left facing ramp corner

3: rap down and left to the pedestal ledge bolted anchor

4: rap down right just barely making it to the now bolted 1st pitch "Chockstone Belay" for Cymbals

5: rap to the starting gully and down scramble a bit
By Garrett Harmsen
From: Park City, UT
Oct 11, 2016
would highly recommend the rappel over the walk off unless you enjoy incredibly heinous bushwhacking down a steep and loose slope. The "walk off" also includes 2 manky rappels, so it doesn't avoid getting the rope out either. It's only redeeming quality is that you get to walk the ridge in between Bells and Lcc. Unless you're a masochist, just rap the wall.

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