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Middle Bell Tower

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arm and Hammer T 
Butcher Knife T 
Cymbals Of The Sun T 
Dire Direct T,S 
Ellsworth-McQuarrie Route T 
Gin and Tonic T 
Lowe Variation T 
Regge Pole T 
Winged Warrior T 

Middle Bell Tower Rock Climbing 


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Location: 40.56302, -111.76855 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 15,333
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Peter Gram on May 15, 2004
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Middle Bell Tower in winter conditions. Taken fro...

Private Property now at the entrance to Bells Canyon. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The Middle Bell Tower can easily be picked out by a big right facing corner which pulls through two huge roofs (the Ellsworth-McQuarrie route). To the left of this is a shield of high quality granite which holds Arm and Hammer, a Bell Tower classic. The Middle Bell Tower is the 3rd Bell tower encountered, after the Far West and the West Bell.

Getting There 

Start at the trailhead for Bell's Canyon off of Wasatch Blvd. Follow this uphill, steeply at times, for 2 or 3 miles until adjacent with the Middle Bell Tower. This takes approximately 75 to 90 minutes to reach, depending on how fast you hike. Look for a faint trail (a ways above the turnoff for the waterfall) which heads easily over to the base of Middle Bell Tower. This faint trail avoids any bushwhacking, but has a lot of scrambling over giant boulders to cross the creek. From the trail, it is about 10 minutes to the base of the rock. Total approach time ~ one hour and 30-45 minutes.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.8 miles from here

9 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',6],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Middle Bell Tower

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Middle Bell Tower:
Ellsworth-McQuarrie Route   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 6 pitches, 600'   
Lowe Variation   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 180'   
Arm and Hammer   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Trad, 6 pitches, 600'   
Winged Warrior   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1     Trad, Aid, 8 pitches, 900'   
Butcher Knife   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
Cymbals Of The Sun   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 6 pitches, 600'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Middle Bell Tower

Featured Route For Middle Bell Tower
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading the MEGA CLASSIC Zion Curtain pitch.

Arm and Hammer 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Middle Bell Tower
An amazing route. This is the route with the famous "Zion Curtain". Killer route, great exposure, and nice belay ledges. Ellison had a damn good eye. Make sure you do the pitch above the "Zion Curtain." Go to the small tree, don't traverse left into the gully, at the end of this pitch. If you do traverse, you can lower off some junk chockstones. This route deserves loads of stars!!! this route is free climbed at .11c or aided at 5.10a AO ...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Middle Bell Tower Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jon and Brent on top of Middle Bell Tower
Jon and Brent on top of Middle Bell Tower
Rock Climbing Photo: Middle Bell Tower.  Taken from main trail junction...
BETA PHOTO: Middle Bell Tower. Taken from main trail junction...

Comments on Middle Bell Tower Add Comment
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By bheller
From: SL UT
May 11, 2016
Middle Bell Tower can indeed be rapped with a 70m rope. We did not go to the true summit of the ridge/formation, but found a stubby mahogany tree in a small notch above crazy choss runnels to the west that seemed to be the logical finish of Arm and Hammer and Butcher Knife. This small mahogany could use a knife and much long fresh cord to improve its function and clean it up (as of 5/10/16) (the ample hardware/quicklinks can be re-used).

Here's the single 70 m rope rappel beta beginning at the this top mahogeny:

1: rap to Butcher Knife's shiny new ASCA bolts and rings in a ramp/corner above the big roofs

2: rap down and right again into Butcher Knifes shiny new ASCA bolts and rings in the left facing ramp corner

3: rap down and left to the pedestal ledge bolted anchor

4: rap down right just barely making it to the now bolted 1st pitch "Chockstone Belay" for Cymbals

5: rap to the starting gully and down scramble a bit
By Garrett Harmsen
From: Park City, UT
Oct 11, 2016
would highly recommend the rappel over the walk off unless you enjoy incredibly heinous bushwhacking down a steep and loose slope. The "walk off" also includes 2 manky rappels, so it doesn't avoid getting the rope out either. It's only redeeming quality is that you get to walk the ridge in between Bells and Lcc. Unless you're a masochist, just rap the wall.