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Mid Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
All my Friends are Aliens T 
Behind the Green Door T 
Blue Ribbon variation T 
Dinky Twinkies T,S 
Flee Fly Flue T 
Flippo T 
Folsom Blues T 
Hips and Valleys T 
Jaded T 
Keith's Crack T 
Lawn Rake, The T 
MW crack T,TR 
PBR T 
Plum Pudding T 
Robin's Ramp T 
Seams Alright T 
Seamstress (access route) T 
Stems & Valleys T 
Stems and Leaves T 
Swamp Thang T 
Waiting for the Sun S 
Wild Boar S 

Mid Wall Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 47.8191, -121.5719 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 13,371
Administrators: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: sqwirll on Mar 24, 2009
Forecast:
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Nate finishing out the crux section.

2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the cliff directly above the Winkie Dinkie Cliff. It has some high quality routes with very little traffic. It is fairly shaded.

Getting There 

There are at least five ways to access Mid Wall.

1) Take the Seamstress route after hiking up to K-Cliff (see images linked to route).

2) Hike up all the way from K-Cliff using fixed lines as described below:

Traverse right along the base of K-Cliff and follow the trail up the gully past the Lip. Traverse along the faint trail above the Black Wall to the base of Winkie Dinkie. Pass Gorilla my Dreams and walk towards the top of Breakfast of Champions, keeping an eye out for a gully on the left. Go up the gully and through the tunnel with the fixed line. Now you are on top of Julie's Roof. Follow a second fixed line and a goat trail to a blocky narrow passage. (If you take this third fixed line down you will access all of the top of the Lower Wall.) If you go up the fixed line, you will be at the Middle Wall.

Update: June 2014: There appears to be no fixed lines on this route now.

3) Via Winkie Dinkie cliff. Climb something at the Great Northern Slab, Princely Ambitions, or hike in from the trail between K-Cliff and the Lip, and then climb Gorilla My Dreams (or the above fixed lines) to get up there.

4) Do a route that either tops out on the Narrow-Arrow end of the Lower Wall, or the wall left of Orc Tower.

5) Hike the trail that goes to the Upper Town Wall (from the Country), taking the first turnout left. Where the Blues Cliff trail forks off left, stay right and continue across the top of the Lower Wall. This is a fun hike, but be careful about the dilapidated stairs. Also use caution on the exposed wooden bridge.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.2 miles from here

22 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',3],['5.8',0],['5.9',4],['5.10',7],['5.11',8],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Mid Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Mid Wall:
Plum Pudding   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Hips and Valleys   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 60'   
Waiting for the Sun   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   
Dinky Twinkies   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch   
Blue Ribbon variation   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
PBR   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Flippo   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 60'   
Folsom Blues   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch   
Stems & Valleys   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Keith's Crack   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch   
Seams Alright   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Swamp Thang   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 70'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Mid Wall

Featured Route For Mid Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo of central region of Mid Wall, showing PBR. M...

PBR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  Washington : Index : ... : Mid Wall
Corner climbing with small roof. Involves jamming and stemming. One can toprope the bottom half from the Plum Pudding anchors....[more]   Browse More Classics in Washington

Comments on Mid Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jon Nelson
Administrator
From: Bellingham, WA
Apr 10, 2012
A fun way to reach this wall is to do the two pitches of Princely Ambitions (5.9), walk up and left on a short trail, then do Gorilla my dreams (5.10a). (GMD is on the Winkie Dinkie cliff, just above the Free Area.) From the top anchor on GMD, hand-over-hand your way up a short section with a fixed rope, then walk another short trail.
By Jessica T
From: seattle, wa
Jul 28, 2013
Great area for a hot day.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Jun 20, 2014
Approach:
There is no fixed rope above Princely/ Champions.
If you topped out Beak, Beak you would find a fixed line above St. Francis ledge.
The old trail is really long compared to Gorilla or Seamstress approach. It is past 1/2 way to UTW, not recommended unless you want a long hike in the dark woods.
By Jon Nelson
Administrator
From: Bellingham, WA
Jun 20, 2014
Thanks Geoff, I updated the approach description above.
By Brian Polagye
May 31, 2015
The fixed lines are back as of May 30, 2015. Kind of a sketchy approach, though, in my opinion. The steps equipped with fixed lines are not likely to clean up with use and there seems like a good chance that any debris kicked down the gullies could fall down into the GNS area.

The bridge/stairs route via The Country was much more pleasant, in my opinion, but the bridge is pretty sketchy. Does anyone know the history of its installation or any folks that would be interested in helping to replace it? Seems like if you had a dozen people helping out, it wouldn't be too hard to haul replacement 2x12 timber and decking.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Jul 5, 2016
I did the fixed rope approach again that is left of the Dihedral wall ( above Princely Ambitions) and right of Winky Dinky. I strongly advise not to go this way, too dangerous to knock loose stuff onto cliff below. I was up there in the winter when I was pretty sure nobody would be below.
By slim
Administrator
Jul 6, 2016
geoff, are you talking about the fixed rope maybe 50 feet left of the winky dink cliff?
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Aug 18, 2016
Slim, no, the fixed rope left of Winky is mine, there is a steep narrow gully right of Winky that has or had a fixed rope.
By Cassie Lowry Edmark
Sep 3, 2017
A couple notes on access:

The fixed line above Gorilla My Dreams (Winkie Dinkie Cliff) is aged, tattered, and worn. Also it's displaced off into the bushes to it can't be reached from the Gorilla ledge. The tree anchor is still solid for rapelling down to the ledge or to the bottom of the cliff for a descent, so coming down it's all fine but unless that hand line gets replaced, this isn't a useful access route up to the Mid Wall right now. It's a true cliff and dirty to boot, so there isn't a clear way of getting up it without a good solid line, and even then a hand line may be sketchy and insufficient.

The Seamstress route (5.7) which is lookers left up trail of the Winkie Dinkie Cliff is dirty but solid and a pretty quick approach. The route description is accurate, and it's about a 50-60' climb in total depending on where you start. The top anchors are 1. a bolted chain on the inside of a slab of rock at the top of the route, and 2. a burly tree that's been slung by climbing rope with hard points. The blue fixed line was getting cut by the edge of the rock, so it was scrapped at some point but then later tied into the 2 anchors to extend it out closer to the top and around the rock edge. Even with it's BFK master point, it's not redundant so faith would be resting in the solid nature of both anchors. Recommendation is to add a separate personal anchor for the belayer and an additional attachment point from the belay device to the belayer as a form of redundancy if you're going to hang your belay device out on the extension. The quality of that section of rope appears fine though and not aged or worn, core intact.

I wouldn't, however, use this as a rappel. Better to double back and head out to Winkie Dinkie Cliff if no one's climbing it.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Sep 7, 2017
Cassie, I added a bolted rap station on Sunday Sept. 3rd. to the top of Seamstress, took down the old rope on Saturday.

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