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Mickey's Big Mouth 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Dave Phillips
Page Views: 204
Submitted By: APasquel on Mar 21, 2014

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Description 

The obvious dihedral crack that starts at the ledge and continues up to a set of anchors. Currently, this route is set for TR. So you can lead Milwaukee's best and set up a TR from there. Or another option is to lead it trad (ok protection). There are a couple of decent placements...but not great.

Location 

On obvious crack system. Only one on the wall.

Protection 

TR...or if leading Trad, 3 to 4 pieces...Standard Rack. I've done this with nuts and cams.


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By APasquel
Mar 21, 2014

So I lead this on trad, just messing around. It's not a great trad route...but if your looking to make this route interesting, you can bring a few pieces of pro.

I used a #3 down below (sketchy, lobes were definitely not even)
then a #10 nut in a vertical slot...pretty solid
then a #1 in a horizontal on the right wall under a small roof (ok)
then a #2 in a horizontal slot below the anchors (solid)
By Robert Michael
Sep 14, 2016
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I do not recommend leading this one on gear.

After first leading the 5.7 to the left, I set a TR on this one and did a solo TR. In my opinion, this route is the easier of the two even though both are 5.7.

After that, keeping the TR as backup since I was suspicious of the rock quality, I "led" this. I didn't have trouble finding decent gear placements, but for most of the route, the rock has that scary hollow sound to it, and I wouldn't want to fall on gear here, especially a cam.

Just my two cents.

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