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Mickey's Beach

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Mickey's Beach Rock Climbing 

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Location: 37.8886, -122.6327 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 117,392
Administrators: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Jun 18, 2002

67° | 57°

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73° | 60°

73° | 60°

74° | 60°

75° | 60°
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Peter Mayfield on Plato Shrimp, which also no long...


Mickey's Beach offers some of the toughest sport climbing in the area, along with some interesting bouldering. Almost all climbs are on the beach, and some are tide dependant. The area can be quite windy, making some of the balancy moves more interesting. Climbs offered range from beginning to expert.

The whole area is free.

A brief bit of history tells that the bouldering area west of the main rock was once a part of the hillside, and in a huge storm in 1986 it fell into the surf as one large chunk. Seven days later, the rock split into pieces, directly in front of an unsuspecting picnicing couple.

The main rock also had some storm trouble. In 1993 a huge storm knocked several classic climbs off the main rock and into the ocean, including a classic 5.12 finger crack known as Mickey's crack. A word of caution for people who travel to Mickey's beach, which is that it's a spot frequented by a rather large group of nudists, so if that bothers you, you should probably climb some place else.

Getting There 

From S.F. Take the 1 north. Follow the signs to Stinson Beach. Follow the road down the canyon, and then follow it down the beach. It's a ways, but the main parking lot is .3 miles north of the sign to the Steep Ravine campground and cabins. This sign is on the left side of the road.

From the east bay: Take 580 west to the 101 south, until it intersects with the 1, then follow the above directions.

Climbing Season

Weather station 3.6 miles from here

69 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',14],['3 Stars',38],['2 Stars',16],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Mickey's Beach

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Mickey's Beach:
Diagnol Ramp   V1 5     Boulder, 10'   Danger Rock (or Orange Budd...
Grace Face   V5 6C     Boulder   Danger Rock (or Orange Budd...
Orange Buddha Arete   V7-8 7B     Boulder   Danger Rock (or Orange Budd...
Green Eggs and Ham   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   The Egg
Coffee and Cigarettes   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   The Egg
Corner Route   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   Main Rock
Walkin' a Thin Line   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Main Rock
Sign Language   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 70'   The Egg
Egghead   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R     Sport, 60'   The Egg
Left Slab   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   Main Rock
Courtney   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Main Rock
Hot Tuna   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   Main Rock
Shell Shock   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 50'   The Egg
Pelicans   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Main Rock
This is your Brain on Drugs   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   The Egg
Better Than Sex.... Porpoises    5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport   Emperor Boulder
Sex Porpoises   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Main Rock
The Emperor's New Clothes   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 65'   Emperor Boulder
Naked and Disfigured   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   Main Rock
Holy Mackerel   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   Main Rock
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Mickey's Beach

Featured Route For Mickey's Beach
Rock Climbing Photo: John Mireles on the second ascent of Dream On, in ...

Dream On 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c  California : San Francisco Bay Area : ... : Main Rock
After climbing the overhang on Dreams, branch right across the slab (runout!) and climb the thin, vertical face past three more bolts. The upper wall is 12+, with the final moves being the hardest. Go straight up the bolt line for full value....[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of Mickey's Beach Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Doug Engelkirk on the once infamous Mickey's Beach...
Doug Engelkirk on the once infamous Mickey's Beach...
Rock Climbing Photo: more rock changes at Mickey's - A big chunk of...
BETA PHOTO: more rock changes at Mickey's - A big chunk of...
Rock Climbing Photo: Stinson Beach
Stinson Beach
Rock Climbing Photo: Way of the Wah
Way of the Wah
Rock Climbing Photo: Endless Bummer Rock, south of Mickey's Beach. Home...
Endless Bummer Rock, south of Mickey's Beach. Home...
Rock Climbing Photo: The big bouldering rock fell apart.  The V9 is no ...
BETA PHOTO: The big bouldering rock fell apart. The V9 is no ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Bouldering at Mickeys.
Bouldering at Mickeys.
Rock Climbing Photo: Bouldering at Mickey's Beach, photo: Bob Horan Col...
Bouldering at Mickey's Beach, photo: Bob Horan Col...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sulli on a fun Mickey's Beach traverse photo: Tell...
Sulli on a fun Mickey's Beach traverse photo: Tell...

Comments on Mickey's Beach Add Comment
Show which comments
By Aron Quiter
From: Oakland, CA
Jun 22, 2003
Currently, highway 1 from San Francisco is closed to traffic going to Mickey's Beach fromthe South. To get here, instead of following the 1, follow the detour that heads toStinson Beach, and once you get to the fork where the detour hits the 1, hang a LEFT andthe Mickey's Beach pullout will be about .7 miles on your right.Heading a right at thefork will lead you into the touristy beach town of Stinson Beach, where there is food andsupplies.
By Aron Quiter
From: Oakland, CA
Sep 25, 2003
No more construction, but you might want to keep note, since there probably will be again at some point, since California is, after all, falling into the Ocean.
By Adam Block
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 5, 2008
I was pretty sad to find this spot on accident and not have any gear. I was just driving down one and decided to take a walk. I did spend a little time sizing things up and I have to say, it's an amazing spot to get some climbing in. Being from AZ I'm putting a lot of weight on the water being right there but even the routes look great. I can't wait to get back that way and get on the rocks...

As a warning, the areas seems like a very safe place to park and leave your car however when we got back to the car ours and another had broken windows. It was daylight (5pm) and there was a cop sitting within eyesight (close enough we just walked over to tell him). I guess it's pretty common there so take what you can, put everything else in the trunk or well out of eyesight...
By Michaeld916
From: Sacramento, CA
Sep 23, 2013
Surfin Safari - 13d/14a
Endless Bummer 13b

I found the rock on google maps at the following location:

37.877671, -122.618599

Copy and paste those coordinates into google maps and zoom in. You should see a shadow, that's the rock. You can see a faint trail, and it was faint when I was there last year.

I had just got an email asking where it was, and I might as well spread the beta!
By John Groh
Aug 18, 2014
It doesn't seem to be listed on MP or in the Bay Area Rock guide, but there's a super fun sidepull compression problem just around the corner from Grace Face on the uphill side of the rock. It felt V4ish. Here's a picture of the problem if you're trying to find it:
Rock Climbing Photo: not sure what this problem is called
not sure what this problem is called

I'd be curious to know the name if anyone knows.
By Darren Carter
From: Berkeley, CA
Apr 20, 2015
@John - I was curious about that one too. Agree on the V4'ish rating. I enjoyed it quite a bit.
By desbien
From: seattle,wa
Mar 31, 2016
The law came down on me, no dogs at Mickey's.
By Jay Diengott
May 16, 2017
Looking to climb here in the coming week, possibly also Mt Tam. Anyone who has more experience in these areas willing to come show us around? From the East Coast and pretty confident at Rumney, etc but didn't travel with crash pads, harnesses or ropes. Thanks!

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