REI Community
Main Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Absorbine Junior TR 
Blocks Direct, The T 
Blocks, The T,TR 
Buckwheat S 
Caterpillar T,S 
Cave Crack T,TR 
Chicken fart T 
Cornered TR 
Crack of Dust T 
Empathy S 
Escapade (aka One Step Beyond) S,TR 
Exit Stage Left T,TR 
Exit Stage Right / The L Word T 
False Mission Gorge Traverse.  
Fingerrip T 
Gallwas Crack T 
General Dynamics T,S 
Handyman  T 
Hangman's Climb S,TR 
Hidden Wall TR 
Intrinsic Value TR 
Knob Job TR 
Knob Job Bypass  T,TR 
Laundry Chute T 
Left Overture TR 
Lilley's Delight T 
Mariah T,TR 
Master of Defeet S 
Mickey Finn S 
Mission Gorge Traverse T 
Mission Impossible S 
Never Intended S 
Nutcracker T 
Obverse from the Gap S 
Owl, The T 
Perception of Buzzy Fuzzy Pelt, The T 
Prime Directive T,S 
Quack of Ducks T 
Quantum Leap S 
Rectum Roof T 
Rock On T,S 
Rock On Right S 
Sierra Club Chimney T,TR 
Suzie's Wild Ride S 
Sympathy T 
Thumb Aid Climb, The 
Thumb, The S 
Trapeze T 
Unnatural Act TR 
Wallflower TR 
Wasp, The T 

Mickey Finn 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Ron Amick, Rick Allenby, 1978
Page Views: 1,570
Submitted By: mschlocker on Aug 5, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Mickey Finn from another angle. Glare highlights ...

Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>


Thin face climbing that will force you to work on good footwork leads to a cool lieback on the Finn past frictiony rock. A few more moves will take you to the anchor that appears to have been moved up and left since the FA.

Apparently you can toprope an 11 to the left of this climb on the same anchor (haven't tried it yet).

I'd give it 3 stars but it is short, even for the gorge.


Starts above the anchors for Mariah and Hangman's in a wide chimney. A short climb in an obscure area makes an available alternative when in the area. A hiker can get even with the middle of the climb making for a good photo op if you have an extra person handy.


2 bolts / bolt anchor. Both lead bolts were replaced 6/2007. Anchors look bomber. Walk off top.

Photos of Mickey Finn Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Both lead bolts and an anchor bolt of Mickey Finn ...
Both lead bolts and an anchor bolt of Mickey Finn ...

Comments on Mickey Finn Add Comment
Show which comments
By Josh Cameron
From: California in my Mind
Jun 6, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I agree with the quality rating. It's a surprisingly fun climb, but quite short. Despite the length, I found it just as good (if not better) than most Mission Gorge classics.

When leading, I found it a little intimidating getting to the first bolt, but after that I felt very well protected.
By The Keels
Sep 11, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

The crux of the climb comes after you clip the first bolt and must manuever to the flake. Try an easier variation (5.10a) by stemming/chimneying off the back wall until you reach the flake. Once you have grabbed that flake transition to the face and finish Mickey Finn as usual.
By AlexK
Mar 31, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I was pleasantly surprised to find this route after leading Crack of Dust. It is tragically short, but probably some of the most interesting and fun slab climbing I've ever done. I think 10b is a little sandbagged, but I'll take it. The thin holds just make this one a little heady. Don't you dare use the back wall!

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About