Mickey B Way
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Wide Crack Testpiece of the Central Coast.
The obvious wide crack roof that sits under the highest block on the mountain.
Gear to 4". Armbars, Chicken wings, Stacks, and Titanium Testicles. (Or titanium forearms for the female variety)
By Internet Hardman
Jan 28, 2013
To start, find a big undercling and stand on a block at the beginning of the crack. Deep heel toe cams and chicken wings are the key, although this section has gone down wild west inverted, too (feet straight into the roof). Find some crimps to exit the wide...fist and hands section is straightforward, but it's deep committing jams with hands and ankles alike. Redpoint crux for me was moving from the hands section back to OW just before the exit horn. Horizontal crack exit section felt 5.8 and took good gear. Easy to pre-place all but the final lip, no wide gear needed.