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Shimmy Shimmy Ya 


Hueco: V6-7 Font: 7A+

Type:  Boulder, 18'
Original:  Hueco: V6-7 Font: 7A+ [details]
FA: Andy Bowen
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 113
Submitted By: Andy Bowen on Sep 23, 2015

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This is a long route. It is low and left. The start is big - sit under the rock, don't start on that low thing that seems like "holy sh$t, really?" unless you want to link it somehow (the grade would be much harder). Look up more, get an awesome left hand jug (after crimp broke, opened up the glory). Now find a right hand undercling and crappy right foot, and throw left over for an ankle scraping heel hook. Move right hand to a two finger, tiny pocket to balance as you swing and make that big move up to a decent rail. Throw farther than you think, make room to match, carry your heel hooks, move with the obvious traversing line, slopers, fancy feet, move up through some great holds on the dihedral thing.


I used three pads. One spotter and two pads would do. These rocks are mean and change when it rains. I've cleared out all that I could.

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Rock Climbing Photo: The awesome finish.
The awesome finish.

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