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Stem and face climb the arête/chimney on the North side of the pillar. Shares second and third bolt with Mijo but doesn't join until the shared anchors.
3 bolts, fixed anchors
Sep 1, 2014
So I did this route without stemming/using the opposing wall. I just used the arête and face do mexican pillar. Felt the climb was a lot harder than 5.9+. Reread guide book and it says that opposing wall/stemming is on. So question is...does anyone know what the grade would be if you climbed this route direct?
Beta spoiler: because if you stay off the opposing wall and transition up from the starting ledge to an undercling...the route goes and it's a sweet move. I thought 10+.
By Dave Vo
From: Long Island City, NY
Apr 10, 2016
Without stemming/using the wall it felt a bit harder than Mijo.