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Mexican Mija 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 25'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Clay Frisbie , Tom Hancock 2012
Page Views: 170
Submitted By: Mike W. on Oct 10, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Description 

Stem and face climb the arête/chimney on the North side of the pillar. Shares second and third bolt with Mijo but doesn't join until the shared anchors.

Protection 

3 bolts, fixed anchors


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By APasquel
Sep 1, 2014

So I did this route without stemming/using the opposing wall. I just used the arête and face do mexican pillar. Felt the climb was a lot harder than 5.9+. Reread guide book and it says that opposing wall/stemming is on. So question is...does anyone know what the grade would be if you climbed this route direct?

Beta spoiler: because if you stay off the opposing wall and transition up from the starting ledge to an undercling...the route goes and it's a sweet move. I thought 10+.
By Dave Vo
From: Long Island City, NY
Apr 10, 2016

Without stemming/using the wall it felt a bit harder than Mijo.
By RandyR
Oct 27, 2016

Looking at this as someone who learned on granite, I thought mija was 5.9 without using the other wall. Mijo was still much harder for me. Who knows though, my second couldn't do it without stemming across.

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